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MARINE INGREDIENTS 81


0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 OLIVE


Grades 0 to 10 Less sallow complexion Placebo EPS Seaglow


0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 BEIGE


Grades 0 to 10 Brighter complexion Placebo EPS Seaglow +10%


-13% **


+6 ***


-17% ***


-9% ***


+5 4.5% Placebo EPS Seaglow Placebo EPS Seaglow Figure 3: Evaluation of the 4 main colours of the skin by an expert before and after 28 days treatment with EPS Seaglow, using a saturation scale.


to identify biological targets in skin models. The new EPS is obtained after a


depolymerisation step of the EPS using HTAC Patented Technology (HydroThermolysis Accelerated by supercritical CO2


). This last step allows the


obtention of a low molecular weight EPS (18kDa on average), able to penetrate the upper layers of the skin to improve skin’s vascularisation network.


Good for the planet Working with micro-organism presents the advantage of a sourcing with zero impact on the environment. Indeed; after the first collection in the sea, today each cultivation process aimed to produce the new EPS is initiated from our collection. The micro-organism is then cultivated in


seawater and releases its EPS in the culture medium. The EPS is then purified by membrane technology and depolymerised by HTAC technology. The supercritical CO2 used as solvent is totally recycled. For a total transparency, Codif TN


evaluates and communicates its environmental indicators (Fig 1); water consumption, energy consumption and solid wastes generated. Better knowledge and measuring our impact helps us every day to improve and invest in more sustainable technologies.


Good for the skin Sulfated EPS are very rare and for this reason their biological properties have not been clearly elucidated yet. In 2016, scientists have highlighted the properties of a sulfated sugar to act in synergy with AGFs to promote angiogenesis and tissue vascularisation.1 Poorly studied before, vascularisation is


now on the radar of numerous laboratories. Like any organ, the skin has a circulatory


system. Because of its very fine dimensions, this system only forms part of the microcirculation.2


The dermis and


hypodermis are richly vascularised by a highly structured vascular network of small or


November 2020


medium-sized arterioles, very fine arterioles, capillaries and venules. Conversely, the epidermis, like any epithelium, is not vascularised but it is nourished by imbibition from the capillary networks of the dermal papillae. The skin microcirculation fulfils four major functions:3 l Nutrition of cells and the dermis, hypodermis, epidermis and skin appendages.


l Maintenance of blood pressure by a vasoconstrictor tone.


l Tolerance by the skin of long periods of ischemia due to the weight of the body.


l Vasomotor reactivity necessary for thermoregulation. In the dermis there is reduction in the


number of capillaries with age and this is accompanied by a thinning of the small blood vessel walls.4,5


Cutaneous ageing in


fact leads to a decline in the microcirculation with a concomitant reduction in capillary density (CD) due to a fall in the levels of angiogenic growth factors: AGF.6 This deterioration with age may have


various consequences including coldness or pallor of the skin, cutaneous ischemic or even alopecia.7 In order to evaluate the efficacy of the


new EPS on the improvement of vascularisation density, we have studied the ability of the new EPS to work as a cofactor of AGF through a quantification of neo- vascularisation by an in situ kinetic analysis of a fibroblast and endothelial cell co-culture. It appears that when used in combination


with the new EPS; the AGF control is more performant to promote the development of vascularisation network with +65% capillaries density in the co-culture. These data confirm what has been previously observed by scientists on the potential synergy between sulfated sugar and AGFs. The benefits of the new EPS for skin’s


vascularisation has been then tested on a panel of 67 women aged 61 years on average with a dull complexion. The panel was divided into 2 groups, 34 volunteers


receiving the cream containing the the new EPS 0.4% and 33 volunteers receiving the placebo cream. The first evaluation consists of an analysis


of the pink component of skin and vascular mapping by means of digital photographs. The use of dedicated software allows us to determine the hemoglobin image (Fig 2). This method enables us to follow the


relative evolution of the vascular network and the pink component. After 28 days of using the new EPS MNB, there is a significant increase of +11% in the pink component on the face with a homogenous distribution, as well as a significant difference in evolution in favour of the active ingredient compared to placebo. This first data confirms the ability of the


new EPS to improve the vascular network with homogenous distribution, participating to the restoration of the nutrient supply function to epidermal cells. This good data has encouraged us to evaluate whether the new EPS, by working on skin vascularization is able to revive skin’s tone and make the complexion less dull and more vibrant. The skin complexion evaluation is based


on a visual sensory analysis by judges of the 4 main colours that compose the skin: pink- red, beige, olive and light pink. Different from the pigments; these four


colours compose all kind of skins but in different proportions for each ethnicity. As examples, pink-red and light pink are more dominant in Caucasian skins; beige is more dominant in Asian skins; and olive is more dominant in Indian skins. Increase in the ‘red pink’ colour is


associated to a more rosy tone; increase in the ‘light pink’ colour is linked to a complexion that looks fresher; decrease in the ‘beige’ colour is associated with a brightening effect; and decrease in the ‘olive colour’ is associated with a less dull complexion. After 1 month use, we found that the skin


of volunteers treated with the new EPS were less olive and that their complexions were


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 RED PINK


Grades 0 to 10 Reactivation of pink carnation


0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 LIGHT PINK


Grades 0 to 10 Fresher complexion


+12% **


% variation versus T0


% variation versus T0


% variation versus T0


% variation versus T0


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