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46 TEXTURES technological or efficient aspect)


l Safety for the people (key component of our philosophy: our ingredients are subject to stringent controls ensuring consumer’s safety)


l Safety for the environment (informing on the importance to choose, when possible, eco-friendly ingredients ensuring lower impact on the environment). To investigate the benefits of using olive


oil by-products in cosmetics, high-quality raw materials, coming from a transparent, circular economy model and traceable Italian supply chain, where only soft technologies, which maintain a natural profile, are selected. The result is a range of high


performance ingredients (Olifeel® Line),


with specific cosmetic functions, obtained from high purification of fractions of Olea europaea. Each element of the line results in such purity that allows formulators working with complete freedom in choosing a natural ingredient with high versatility thanks to its chemical nature, which provide a wide variety of applications. Olifeel Line is based on standardised


substances, specifically rebuilt similar to olive oil for cosmetic purposes. They are not directly extracted or taken from olive oil derivatives, but designed to get the best performance. The main bricks of this line of ingredients


are basic molecules that could be obtained by all olive oil by-products. The fundamental step is ROELMI HPC know- how on their assembly to obtain specific ingredients. Impurities coming from by-products are really reduced in the final ingredients of this


C21-28 Alkane


Paraffinum


Dimethicone Isostearyl


Isostearate Octyldodecanol


Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides


Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil


Olive Glycerides Ricinus


Communis Oil


Figure 1:Gelling effect. 0


50000 100000 150000 Viscosity value (mPa*s) 200000 250000


line, thanks to production steps which take advantage only of selected molecules, isolating them from the rest. The process of olive fraction purification


happens once they have already exited the food production chain. Results are: (i) natural touch and stabilising rheology modifier and (ii) natural actives carrier and skin-feel enhancer. Inspired by nature and recognising the


excellent properties of olive oil on the skin, ROELMI HPC has broken down and recreated a line of olive-oil-like ingredients to reach the best sustainability without losing any property of natural perfection.


The natural touch and stabilising rheology modifier Olifeel®


Pearls (C10-18 Triglycerides) is a potent and versatile rheology


n 5% Olifeel Pearls n 10% Olifeel Pearls n 15% Olifeel Pearls


modifier/gelling agent, able to thicken any anhydrous oily system at different percentages, showing different characteristics versus classic triglycerides: it is solid, white, odourless, and shows a higher melting point (not melting in contact with body heat). Triglycerides are fully saturated, without double bonds. Indeed, they show a peculiar configuration, inferring a precise and repeatable conformation at the molecular level, promoting molecular interactions by hydrogen bridge bonds (i.e. especially strong dipole-dipole attractions). Its olive unsaponifiable content can also help anti- oxidation and emollience for a dual ‘function and care’ nature. This rheology modifier/gelling agent


shows a superior compatibility with the majority of cosmetic lipophilic ingredients, even from different origins (natural, mineral or synthetic). Though its performance is not exclusive, it is interesting to note that the affinity is also very good for silicones, esters and other hydrophobic substances. With mineral oils, the affinity seems to depend more on the length of the carbon chain. The longer the chain is, the higher the viscosity is, the better affinity is (please refer to Figure 1). Thinking about the Water Free trend,


this rheology modifier/gelling agent combined with esters can be used as a binder for powders giving the possibility to create anhydrous formulas such as lipstick, eyeshadows, foundation and many others. Furthermore, it is demonstrated (data


not shown) that Olifeel Pearls is able to significantly increase the measure of viscosity for a simple emulsion in a dose- dependent manner starting from just 0.5% of dosage. This ingredient proved to help the


stability of the formula, increasing the viscosity during the test period both at room temperature as well as in warm room (40°C). It also brings to the finished formula an


exceptional multi-dimensional effect, from technical to a sensorial point of view: l Important viscosity increase in every type of finished product.


l More compact and homogenous structure helping to reach a more stable formulation.


l Cosmetic benefit by giving to the final formulation a nicer appearance, together with triglyceride emolliency & creamy, comfortable not-greasy touch with a soft, nourishing skin-feel. Moreover, this ingredient is available in


an easy-to-manipulate colourless pearls form with a regular shape, optimising a safe manipulation by operators and minimising the risk of environmental contamination, hence reaching the company criteria of sustainability (“No Impact in Progress® program).


” PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2020


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