ANTI-POLLUTION 49
Padina alga extract improves protection from pollution
n Alexandra Jeanneau, MS – Alban Muller International
Directly impacted by repeated external aggressions, the skin suffers from silently acting alterations. They cause first invisible damages at the cell level (production of free radicals, inflammatory reactions, degradation of collagen and elastin fibres, etc.) which lead, by a cumulative impact, to skin visible degradations such as loss of radiance, wrinkles, redness, etc. Skin epidermis is the epithelial barrier which constitutes the first line of physical, chemical, and immunologic defences and provides a protective wall against environmental threats. Maintaining its integrity is therefore fundamental for a proper protective function. Skin ageing etiology is multifactorial and it
is now well established that pollution is a major driver of ageing. At a time when consumers are more and more concerned about their health, natural cosmetic products that protect the skin from pollution damages are most researched. The main strategy of cosmetic players is to offer protective films acting as a physical shield limiting particle adhesion on the skin surface. This paper presents a natural and innovative cosmetic ingredient improving skin biology and self- protection function. This active is inspired by a unique alga using calcium as a protection strategy from its environment.
A unique alga with a primitive strategy involving calcium Nature is a constant source of inspiration. Some living organisms have developed a protective mechanism by an adaptation to their environment. Padina pavonica is a unique calcified brown macroalga widely distributed throughout temperate and tropical waters of Atlantic and Indo−Pacific, as well as encompassing populations in the Mediterranean Sea in littoral habitats.1
Figure 1: Skin epidermis structure.
formation of this exoskeleton needs messenger molecules to be sent from the deepest cells of the alga to its surface to initiate the crystallisation of aragonite, as this does not occur naturally in sea water. This aragonite bio-crystal is usually formed under the influence of biological agents, under considerable and very precise conditions of temperature and pressure.3
Skin barrier and calcium The epidermis is composed of four functional layers of keratinocytes at different stages of vertical differentiation starting from the basal layer to the stratum corneum (SC). Calcium plays a major role as
Stimulation of Cytokeratin synthesis Padina
is able to regulate the fixation of calcium on the surface of its fronds. This protective exoskeleton is an organised external sediment formation through calcium carbonate deposition (CaCO3
aragonite crystals. Padina is used in marine biology above all as a sensor or marker to study pollution levels in the sea and, in general, in the marine environment.2
The November 2020 ) in the form of
300 250 200 150 100 50 0
a signal molecule in the epidermal differentiation and the formation of the skin barrier. It is present at a specific concentration in each layer (epidermal calcium gradient): low levels in basal and spinous layers and progressively increasing levels towards the stratum granulosum, and declining again in the SC. Calcium ions are transferred from the blood to the most superficial cells by channels specialised in ions transport though cell membranes.3 Calcium maintains epidermis
homeostasis by regulating keratinocyte adhesion, differentiation, and survival.4
It
works in the formation, differentiation, and renewal of keratinocytes by participating in the production of several essential proteins. A study demonstrates that keratinocytes cultured in low calcium concentrations remain proliferative. When these keratinocytes are switched to high calcium concentrations (the calcium switch), the cells begin to differentiate.5
Moreover, Control Padina active at 0.4%
Figure 2: Effect of Padina active on cytokeratin synthesis.
calcium initiates the differentiation by outside–in and inside–out mechanisms. Specifically, it enables the formation of desmosomes (DS), adherens junctions and tight junctions that bind cells together in
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Cytokeratin (ng/ml)
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