SKIN MICROBIOME 57
The microbiome-activated digital stress defender
nMathias Fleury, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet PhD, Amandine Scandolera PhD, Mélanie Pélican, Romain Reynaud – Givaudan Active Beauty, France
In a world where 80% of people are not totally satisfied with their sleep quality, and where 77% of consumers are also convinced of the strong link between sleep quality and skin health, it becomes clear that melatonin protection is one of the key areas to investigate for both well-ageing and wellbeing. Well aware of its harmful effects on the skin surface and sleep quality, Givaudan Active Beauty brings the solution with Synchronight™.
Skin melatonin: the key for a happier and younger life Melatonin is a well-known sleep-related hormone naturally secreted by our organism (brain and skin), on a daily rhythm cycle. Its production peak happens at night, and plays a crucial role in our capacity to fall asleep and in our sleep quality, as described thoroughly by the literature. However, melatonin has other interesting properties: it also acts as a powerful anti-ageing agent, thanks to its strong antioxidant properties, and the triggering of a biological defences cascade through its binding to the melatonin specific receptor (MT1R). When exposed to digital stress (digital
devices, blue light…), melatonin production rhythm is disturbed, ending up in skin ageing (loss of antioxidant defences and damages to the mitochondria) and a perturbation of the sleep-related functions (difficulties to fall asleep, waking up several times at night, fatigue in the morning). This results in a vicious circle of premature ageing of the skin, more exposed to external aggressions and unable to restore itself during resting phases of the human body.
A natural shield against digital stress Givaudan Active Beauty researchers have investigated specific tetraterpenoids, generally known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, such as crocin and crocetin, which are identified for their additional benefits against blue light and
November 2020
Figure 1: Gardenia fruit.
UV radiation, as well as for their ability to improve sleep quality (as food supplements). It appears that crocin is one of the major components of the Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis fruit. This molecule, with antioxidant effects,
protects squalene against UV-induced peroxidation and prevents the release of inflammatory mediators. To transform this fruit into an active ingredient, while retaining its naturalness, the choice to use green technology was obvious. It involves using natural processes and greener solvents to replace common synthetic organic solvents that may have toxicity.1
The
active molecules, crocin and its derivatives, are extracted according to a natural process of extraction and purification that uses only water and ethanol. Then, based on a patent pending process, the use of a NaDES (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) solvent is performed to formulate the extract and stabilise crocin. Considered as ‘biomimetic solvents’,
based on their composition which is similar to botanical cells, NaDES are defined as a combination of natural compounds (generally, we can use alcohols, sugars, amino acids or even organic acids) whose melting point is considerably lower than those of its individual components. NaDES have excellent properties as solvents due to their high solubilisation strength for a wide polarity range of compounds, and also high extraction and high stabilisation capacities for some natural products. With sustainable perspective, NaDES can also offer advantages such as biodegradability,2,3 toxicity and skin affinity and skin efficiency.
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Activation by the microbiome in a melatonin-like molecule By further collaborating with our experts in Skin Physiology and Skin Microbiomics, we demonstrated that crocin not only protects the natural skin melatonin cycle, but can also be converted into crocetin by the skin microflora, triggering the same receptors as
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
©Pauline Daniel
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