24 MEN’S GROOMING
Analysing a new sensory hydrogel system
n Athena Zhao, David Lee, Lingting Hu - BASF Advanced Chemicals, China Krystal Wang, Flora Lo – BASF East Asia Regional Headquarters Ltd, Hong Kong
The global men’s personal care market is expected to reach a total worth of US$166 billion by 2022, according to a report published by Allied Market Research. With the booming male grooming business worldwide, skin care products especially made for men are making every effort to catch up with the market’s expectations. Due to their innately more active sebum and sweat production compared to their female counterparts, it is not uncommon to find men struggling with oily and sticky skin. Thus, male consumers usually search for “weightless” and fast- absorbing skin care products to improve the feel of their skin, ideally throughout the day. In addition, fuelled by the high exposure to omnichannel marketing via social media and celebrity influencers, men’s knowledge in skin care is rising tremendously in sophistication day by day. When formulating for men, it is necessary to consider their skin concerns and develop skin care products that cater to their sensorial preference. Gel and jelly textures see attractive
potential with male consumers for many good reasons. Not only does it feel much lighter than conventional moisturisers like lotion and cream on the skin, it adds excitement and playfulness given its refreshing, aquacious touch that seems to be absorbed by skin almost instantly. This sensorial profile can also be easily translated into immediate hydration for many consumers. Hydration and moisturisation have always been one of the most fundamental skin attributes that serves to strengthen and protect the skin in the simplest way, therefore it is not difficult to understand why the watery texture of observed in gel and jelly formats is attractive to male users – skin care amateurs who are just starting to build their skin care routine from the most basic level. Furthermore, gel and jelly texture has risen to popularity due to the fact that its sensory is exceptionally suitable for those in the sub-tropical and tropical regions. Under a climate is that often hits high temperatures and unbearable humidity, quick absorption, cooling and refreshing facial products
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Abstract
Sensory is an important aspect in male grooming and skin care applications. According to an article by Mintel, consumers are seeing the clear connection between sensory factors of a product and its functionality. Male consumers, being quite the new joiners to the world of highly diversified skin care products, are likely to find it important to be able to quickly identify benefits given by the few items they include in their skin care routines. As apparent as it is, how a product feels on the skin makes the first impression, and consumers are likely to base their opinion on their sense of touch. Being fresh and light, hydrogel systems offer desirable sensation that matches the
dynamic demands of male consumers. Polymers are used as key ingredients in a wide range of hydrogel formulations serving a variety of functions, such as thickening, emulsifying, film-forming, etc. However, they usually deliver sticky and tacky feeling at high concentrations. Although polymers are essential in providing pleasant textures, their thickening power is concentration dependent. Residue or noodling effect can arise in the presence of high amount of polymers added for the formation of gel texture in skin care. As it is often reflected by skin care users, these side effects are common unwelcome characteristics in polymer-based hydrogel products. They can cause discomfort and unappealing feel and look to the users which might discourage users from continued use. Therefore, there are strong needs to develop a hydrogel system that minimises the unattractive sticky sensation and emphasises on its refreshing and lightweight sensory properties. In this study, we report a hydrogel composition with enhanced sensory without compromising its rheological property and texture.
140,000 120,000 100,000 80,000 60,000 40,000 20,000 0
RV#7 5rpm
RV#7 10rpm Figure 1: Rheology evaluation result of Luvigel®
reflects precisely the consumers’ desires. However, despite its various positive features, hydrogels are very often associated with many unattractive characteristics. Stickiness, rubbery residue and insufficient nourishment are common
EM system.
undesirable traits reported by users. Developing hydrogel formulations with
sensory preferred by male consumers is not an easy task. Looking from the ingredient level, the sensory of hydrogels can be manipulated, but also easily affected by its
November 2020
n ESPG-308 n ESPG-328 n ESPG-352
RV#7 20rpm
RV#7 50rpm
Viscosity (mPa s)
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