42 TEXTURES Spreadability Shine
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
n Dimethicone 100 n PlantsilTM
Xcite 100 Spreadability
Smoothness (Velvety feel)
Shine
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Greasy feel
Transfer (Penetration time)
Tacky feel (Sticky)
Figure 3 :Natura-Tec Plantsil™ Xcite 100 vs low viscosity Dimethicone.
an important role in degradation processes. Some of the volatile ones are seen as very critical and are on the ECHA SVHC
candidate list. So, tests are still ongoing. 1,3,5,6,9,10,11,12,13,14
If you take a closer look at the subject of
skin care effects, the completely skin-alien silicones show no real care or regenerating properties, apart from the formation of a, more or less, waterproof film and the resulting reduced TEWL.2, 4, 5
‘Silicone-like’ performance products “Keeping the effects, but naturally”, is what Natura-Tec PlantsilsTM
are designed to do. The COSMOS approved ingredients are
not concerned about being compared with synthetic silicones in terms of application properties. Created on the base of natural components they can replace some of the most important silicone derivatives of the cyclomethicone and dimethicone range. Considering the human and environmental
toxicological profile of their natural-based ingredients, they do not provide any basis for discussion. All of them are renewable, readily
Odor intensity
Smoothness after
absorption
Whitening 10.0 9.0 8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
biodegradable and therefore show no bioaccumulation. They are highly tolerated by skin, eyes and the environment. No SVHC substances are present in the production processes or in the finished products. Looking at the formulation side the Natura-
Tec Plantsils they are highly compatible with other ingredients and easy to formulate. No special emulsifiers are needed. The Natura-Tec Plantsil range comprises
three products. The spectrum of performance of Plantsil, Plantsil Xcite 100 and the super emollient Plantsil Xcite 350 are shown in Figure 1. Plantsil: a green alternative to
cyclomethicone D5 res. dimethicone 200. A highly stable transparent, very light fluid oil with rapid absorption, superior smoothness, good spreadability and no tackiness or greasiness (Fig 2). Plantsil Xcite 100: a green alternative to
low viscous silicone like dimethicone 100. It proved to have excellent spreadability, elegant smoothness and good penetration without tackiness or residual greasy feel (Fig 3).
n Dimethicone 100 n PlantsilTM
Spreadability Xcite 100 Odor intensity
n Dimethicone 350 n PlantsilTM
Xcite 350
Smoothness (Velvety feel)
Greasy feel
Transfer (Penetration time)
Tacky feel (Sticky)
Figure 4 :Natura-Tec Plantsil™ Xcite 350 vs medium viscosity Dimethicone. Plantsil Xcite 350: green alternative to
medium viscous silicone like dimethicone 350. It shows excellent filming characteristic, medium spreadability, appealing suppleness and a pleasant rich touch (Fig 4).
Performance of the ingredients in application Given these sensory test results, the next question is whether green silicone alternatives can also prove their effectiveness in finished skin care formulations. The answer is yes, they can. Natura-Tec Plantsils can be used in a
broad range of cosmetic applications, as alternatives to dimethicones, which they mimic perfectly, and due to their excellent emollient character. Being natural their skin compatibility is high. The natural filming properties do not lead to that kind of hydrophobic coverage that may cause impaired skin breathing. Therefore, they are also ideally suited for sensitive skin. Plantsil (now referred to as ‘the natural
silicone alternative’) is a cosmetic emollient of universal use with surprising feeling of
Whitening Greasy at application
Smoothness after
absorption
10.0 9.0 8.0 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0
n Dimethicone 350 n PlantsilTM
Spreadability Xcite 350
Greasy at application
Tacky residual effect
Greasy after feel
Figure 5 :Natura-Tec Plantsil™ Xcite 100 vs low viscosity Dimethicone, 10% in emulsion.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Absorption
Tacky residual effect
Greasy after feel
Figure 6 :Natura-Tec Plantsil™ Xcite 350 vs medium viscosity Dimethicone, 10% in emulsion.
November 2020
Absorption
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