NATURALS 15
era were inexpensive and simple formulations that were considered a last resort for people who could not wash their hair. Recently, dry shampoo sales have
surged and there are many reasons behind this. Busy people swear by dry shampoos, and top stylists around the world consider them to be an indispensable tool in their arsenal. Traditionally, most dry shampoos have come in one of two forms, an actual powder or an aerosol spray, although with the recent increase in popularity in dry shampoo alternative formats and novel packaging concepts have further segmented the market. Despite the proliferation in dry shampoo formats and concepts, the key intended benefits of dry shampoos have remained the same. Those include the ability to extend a hair style, preserve colour, or act as a styling tool to build volume and texture. The ingredients in the spray-type of dry
shampoo are usually a mixture of aerosol propellants, absorbing agents, solvents, conditioning agents and fragrance. Starch plays a key role in the performance benefits achieved by dry shampoos. The unique differences between the starch granule morphology is magnified in this application as the typical starch inclusion level is quite high, especially when considering that most of the formulation contains volatile ingredients such as ethanol and propellant. Barley starch can provide a pleasant, smooth, and natural feel on hair that is less dry and rough compared to other starches. Additionally, it creates a much more natural look. These properties make it well suited for dry shampoo, enabling conditioning claims without the use of cetrimonium chloride surface treatments.
Application example: A pair of dry shampoo formulations were prepared according to Formulation 2, in which both barley starch and rice starch were included at five percent. The dry shampoos were then sprayed onto hair swatches, as illustrated in Figure 2, according to a standardised test method. The tresses were sprayed in a fume hood
Table 2: Sensory Panel Performance. Attributes
Amaze TM
Gloss/Shine Whitening
Feel/ Softness Removeability Brushability
Frizz/ Flyaway *NSD = no significant difference. November 2020 Nordic Barley
vs Rice Strach + + +
NSD +
NSD
Formulation 2: Dry Shampoo (14797-27). Phase
Ingredients A
Ethanol Anhydrous 40-B Ligafood MF 2K
AmazeTM Nordic Barley B
Rice Starch AP 40
INCI SDA Alcohol 40-B
Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Seed Flour
Rice Starch Propane Butane 80 14 5 5 80 % 14 Magnesium Stearate 11
Figure 2: Dry shampoo treated swatches. Rice Starch
with the same distance (15 cm) and the same spray time (2-second burst to the front of the swatch and a 2-second burst to the back of the swatch). The spray rate was also the same (1.5 g/sec). The swatches were than evaluated in a
sensory study (pair-wise comparison, n=8) and the results are presented in Table 2. The barley can provide a dry shampoo with improvements in shine and ease of brushing, as well as a less white and softer feel compared to a rice starch-treated hair swatch.
Conclusion Amaze Nordic Barley is a recent product launch by Nouryon that helps to improve the ability of formulators to deliver more natural, clean, and high performing formulations. This unique valuable aesthetic modifier can provide excellent sensory properties in both skin and hair
AmazeTM
Nordic Barley
care applications as a result of its unique particle shape. Furthermore, as a plant- derived ingredient it can meet the needs of some of the most stringent clean/natural beauty formulation requirements while also being able to provide consumer-valued performance. It creates a natural, sensory appearance
in final consumer formulations; is a COSMOS and NATRUE approved raw material, and makes new visual effects like nude look possible in colour cosmetics.
References 1 Mascher M, Schuenemann V, Davidovich
U. et al. Genomic analysis of 6,000-year-old cultivated grain illuminates the domestication history of barley. Nature Genetics 2016; 48: 1089–1093
2 Donev A, Cisse A, Sachs D, et al. Improving the density of jammed disordered packings using ellipsoids. Science 2004; 303: 990-993
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC PC
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