TEXTURES 47
The natural actives carrier and skin- feel enhancer Olifeel SKin (Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate), thanks to its unique composition and glyceride nature, is different from other natural oils. It has been developed through: A 75% skin affinity focus (triglycerides
are naturally present in human skin, therefore they confer to this ingredient a light and evanescent film and a perfect skin biocompatibility, acting as a carrier of lipophilic ingredients); A 25% formula affinity focus
(diglycerides help to stabilise the formulas thanks to their polar nature and can give to the finished product interesting stable feel). The genuine skin-feel is a key feature that reveals its natural origin without greasiness or tackiness, as it is strongly dermo- compatible with human skin. Thanks to its specific properties, the
ingredient provides a multi-benefit action to finished formulas: a very good compatibility with both skin and formula, a better resistance to oxidation as well as a higher stability enhanced with a quick skin penetration. A soft touch and a gliding effect linked to a non-greasy skin-feel complete the ingredient profile. The efficacy of the ingredient in
enhancing the skin absorption of the emulsion was carried out by means of the skin stripping technique by using Corneofix®
foil on 10 female subjects (aged
18-65 years old). Results confirmed the quick effectiveness in time (30 min) and at low dosage. Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate enhances the emulsion absorption when compared to the benchmarks: up to +26.5% than caprylic/capric triglycerides and up to +7.5% than Almond Oil (please refer to Figure 2). It brings to the finished formula a highly
satisfying sensorial experience: a light balanced film-forming property, a nice soft feel, a quicker emulsion penetration and a higher comfort to the skin, which remains perfectly and gently smoothed (ideal for skin care, body care and baby care
15 12 9 6 3 0 2%
Oilfeel® Skin
Figure 2: Skin penetration.
applications). It is possible to use Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate in a wide range of make-up products thanks to its emolliency properties, matte aspect as well as for its ability to disperse pigments, or to carry a particular lipophilic active, acting as a real booster of penetration. Inserted into toiletries, rinse-off products
(bath and shower gel), Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate provides long lasting protective effect after towel drying, skin moisturisation, excellent skin conditioning leaving a very light and discrete film and a pleasant and silky skin- feel.
When used in hair care formulations
(shampoo, conditioner, hair mask), Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate improves hair look, feel and manageability. It exerts a rich emollient action that conditions the hair and makes it easy to comb. Olifeel SKin offers a soft touch, and
increasing skin penetration thanks to its dermocompatible nature. With a light and balanced film-forming effect, it brings a nice and soft feel to the skin. With a unique matte
aspect, perfect for skin care, it sets new trends for makeup. Its low tackiness confirms the high absorption benefit as well as a velvetier touch.
Conclusions Rising interest towards natural beauty should take into consideration the related impact on environment of the ingredients involved. The present work demonstrates that circular economy adapted to cosmetics opens the possibility to minimise the impact: non-competition with food supplies keep them precious for humankind and create value for the industry. In fact, Olifeel ingredients demonstrated
to be an ethical source for cosmetic applications looking for concrete action towards sustainability. Those innovative ingredients link two
different concepts: innovation and sustainability. Innovation characterised by proved performances in enhancing formula texture together with other beneficial effects and sustainability linked to the circular economy models supported.
PC 8%
Oilfeel® Skin
8%
Caprylic/Capric triglycerides
8%
Prunus Amigdalus Dulcis oil
November 2020
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Stratum corneum layer (no.)
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