SKIN MICROBIOME 59 Untreated Blue light Blue light+ SynchronightTM 2%
Figure 3: Reduction of oxidised proteins content (ex vivo), **p<0.01, * p<0.05 Mann Whitney test. Blue light stress disturbs or delays the
cycle of melatonin release, as there is no significant increase in melatonin release under these conditions. The use of Gardenia fruit extract at 4% enables a full protection of the natural melatonin release cycle, avoiding any perturbation caused by the blue light, as the level of melatonin and its rhythmed cycle is preserved at cutaneous level.
Microbiome activation into a melatonin-like molecule A sampling of skin’s microbiome was performed (in vitro) on seven volunteers with a sterile gauze impregnated with NaCl on 5 areas: forehead, cheek, nose, neck, forearm. Microbiome was cultured in liquid medium (buffered HT medium) at 30°C in presence of crocin. Supernatants were collected upon time and analysed by HPLC-MS to detect crocin and crocetin. It appears that the Stratum Microbium™ totally converts crocin into crocetin, by removing the glucoside moieties of crocin over time.
Melatonin-like behaviour of crocetin Docking studies were performed by bioinformatics with models derived from crystallographic structures to evaluate the possibility of crocin and crocetin to interact with a melatonin specific receptor (MT1R). The best model reproducing experimental data was selected, and affinities were calculated for crocin, crocetin and melatonin. While crocin has a negative score of
affinity (highly disfavoured interaction), crocetin has an affinity with MT1R close to the one of melatonin itself, meaning it may be able to bind to this receptor, and trigger the biological cascade of mechanisms which would be triggered by the binding of melatonin: activation of the antioxidant defences and positive activity on the circadian rhythm.
November 2020 12 11.5 11 10.5 10 9.5
30 min before night
2h after night 5h after night Figure 4:Melatonin production cycle (D1) * p<0.05 Mann Whitney test. n Crocin n Crocetin 100 80 60 40 20 0 0 18 42 Figure 5: Conversion of crocin into crocetin.
Anti-ageing and wellbeing efficacy To evaluate the wellbeing and anti-ageing benefits of Gardenia fruit extract in face care applications, thanks to its action against digital stress, a clinical test was conducted in double blind versus placebo. This study was carried out on 40 women (average age 39 years old, from 18 to 50 years old), selected
for being in front of a digital screen more than 4 hours per day, of which at least 2 consecutive hours in the evening, with their devices set at 100% luminosity. Two groups of volunteers were formed, and panellists applied a cream with or without the equivalent of Gardenia fruit extract at 2% twice a day (morning and evening) for 56 days.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC 66 90 162 Hours of skin microbiome culture 186 210 8h after night
n Untreated n Untreated + blue light n SynchronightTM *
* * * * * 4% + blue light
% of maximum concentration detected
Melatonin release (pg/ml)
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