52 ANTI-POLLUTION


epidermis thickness doubles versus that treated with nicotine only. Padina active protects the structure but also the organisation of the major cytoskeleton components in all cell layers of the epidermis (Fig 6).


Optimised cell communication Cell-to-cell communication is essential to the proper functioning of the skin. Transmission of information allows the cells to react in a fast manner to any disturbance. With age, this network of information is less effective and skin defence is reduced. Like most other epithelial cells, the keratinocytes of human epidermis are connected by gap junctions, i.e., by membrane differentiations thought to provide channels for direct cell-to-cell communication.7


To


demonstrate the effect of Padina active on cell communication a test was carried out on keratinocytes using the gap junction-permeant tracer Lucifer Yellow (LY). After one-night incubation at 37°C, cell cultures are cut in their middle and the solution of LY is added. Cells are fixed and observed with a fluorescence microscope (Fig 7). The test shows that Padina active favours cell


communication by improving the transfer of messengers (here LY) from one cell to another. By increasing keratin production, Padina active restores an optimised cell communication between keratinocytes and thus reinforces the epidermis ability to protect the body. The skin reacts optimally and becomes more resistant.


Improving skin elasticity and suppleness Padina active presents also an effect on skin beauty. It has been tested on fibroblasts at 0.2% on its activity to inhibit degradation enzymes and to stimulate the synthesis of elastin and LOXL1. Elastin is a glycoprotein characterised by a very high elasticity capable of being stretched up to 8 times its length at rest, totally reversible. Synthesised mainly by fibroblasts, it is formed by an assembly of several tropoelastin monomers associated with other microfibrils rich


Inhibition of protease activity in presence of Protectami ER


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Control Protectami ER at o.5% Control Figure 8: Reduction of enzymatic degradation activity of proteases and elastase.


Expression of Elastin by fibroblasts treated with Protectami®


ER


140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0


120 100 80 60 40 20 0


Control Protectami ER at o.5% Figure 9: Increase in elastin and LOXL1 synthesis. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Expression of LoxL1 by fibroblasts treated with Protectami®


ER Protectami ER at o.5% a b


Figure 7: a) Control culture impregnated with LY, b) Control culture impregnated with LY + treated with Protectami ER at 4%.


in fibrillin thanks to enzymes of the Lysyl oxidase family. Ageing led to a decrease in the rate of elastic fibre formation due from one hand to an increasing activity of the degradation enzymes, in particular elastase, and on the other hand, to a decrease in the activity of LOXL1 (Lysyl Oxidase Like 1) responsible for the maturation of the elastin fibres. This decreased production of elastin contributes to the onset of clinical signs of skin ageing such as loss of suppleness and wrinkles. The enzymatic activity study covers all the


proteases grouping several families. Among the main proteases there are serine proteases such as trypsin and thrombin, cysteine proteases such as caspases and certain cathepsins, acid proteases such as pepsins, cathepsins D and E and ß-secretase, Metalloproteinases collagenases, gelatinases, stromelysin and elastase (Fig 8). The results show a significant decrease of


protease degradation activity (all proteolytic enzymes including elastase) and elastase by fibroblasts. Moreover, by comparing the inhibitory effects obtained from proteases and elastase, it is noted that the inhibition of the enzymatic activity of proteases is higher than that of elastase. This differential effect can be explained by the inhibition not only of elastase but also of other proteases and in particular metalloproteinases such as collagenases (MMP-


Inhibition of Elastase activity in presence of Protectami ER


1, MMP-8, and MMP-13), gelatinases (MMP-2 and MMP- 9) and stromelysins (MMP-3, MMP- 10 and MMP-11). Padina active stimulates the expression of


elastic fibres not only by an inhibitory effect on metalloproteinase enzymes (Elastase and others) but also by promoting the maturation of elastin fibres through a stimulation of the enzymes responsible for the fibrillogenesis process of tropoelastin molecules such as Lysyl oxidase like-1 LOXL1 as shown in Figure 9.


Conclusion Resulting from the transposition of the protection strategy of Padina from its environment, the Padina active acts on the skin as a true anti-pollution and anti-ageing protective shield. Protectami®


ER COSMOS


Certified is an innovative ingredient which stimulates the skin natural self-protection by optimising the pathway of calcium in the epidermis. It restores cell homeostasis, promotes cohesion and resistance of the skin while providing suppleness and elasticity.


PC


References 1 Savva I, Bennett S, Roca G, Jordà G, Marbà N.


Thermal tolerance of Mediterranean marine macrophytes: Vulnerability to global warming. Ecology and Evolution 2018; 8: 12032–12043.


2 Minetti M, Bernardini G, Biazzo M, et al. Padina pavonica Extract Promotes In VitroDifferentiation and Functionality of Human Primary Osteoblasts. Marine Drugs 2019, 17, 473 p.


3 Jeanneau A. Ingredients to Strengthen Skin Barrier Integrity: From algal protective exoskeleton to a Protective Barrier for the Epidermis. Harry’s Cosmetology 9th Edition 2015, 2: 2600 p.


4 Tu CL, Celli A, Mauro T, Chang W. The calcium- sensing receptor regulates epidermal intracellular Ca2+ signaling and reepithelialization after wounding. J Invest Dermatol. 2019; 139(4): 919–929.


5 Bikle D, Xie Z. C6-L. Calcium regulation of keratinocyte differentiation. Expert Rev Endocrinol Metab. 2012; 7(4): 461–472.


6 Zhang X, Yin M, Zhang L-J., Keratin 6, 16 and 17—Critical Barrier Alarmin Molecules in Skin Wounds and Psoriasis. Cells 2019; 8: 807p.


Control Protectami ER at o.5%


7 Salomon D. et al. Cell-to-cell communication within intact human skin. J Clin Invest. 1988; 82(1), 248-254


November 2020


expression level (% control)


Inhibition (% control)


expression level (% control)


Inhibition (% control)


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