26 MEN’S GROOMING
Cooling evaluation To evaluate the cooling performance, the formulations used for rheology property investigation which are described in Table 1, 2 and 3 were evaluated, one comprises of synergistic composition while the other two do not. Skin temperature was evaluated individually on panels with an objective test method (n=8). The test was carried out in a room
prepared in conformity with the DIN standards with a relative humidity of approx. 50% and a temperature of approx. 23°C.
Results and discussion Synergistic rheology property In rheology evaluations of the system with/without the synergistic composition, it was revealed that the synergistic rheology property is exhibited by use of the emulsifier/solubiliser composition together with the emulsifying polymer. The system was further optimised to
identify the most suitable polymers with the system, which were sodium polyacrylate, acrylates/ beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, sodium acrylates copolymer. The synergistic performance in viscosity was proportional to the increase of polymers, the emulsifiers and/or that of consistency agents, which indicates there are chemical interactions between the polymers, the emulsifiers and the consistency agents. Based on this understanding, the
optimisation of the rheological property could be designed, which is to use a reduced amount of polymer and an optimised amount of the emulsifier and/or the consistency agent. With the optimisation, the amount of the polymer could be reduced in accordance with the synergistic behaviours of the polymers which is revealed in Figure 1.
Enhanced sensory property As it was described in the introduction, it was presumed that the sensory benefits were expected due to the reduced amounts of polymers, which are fresh, light, easy distribution, quick absorbing, cooling and watery sensory profiles, and less oiliness and less residual feeling compared to the conventional system, which is a demonstration that the synergistic composition can be a solution for the demand. The sensory benefits can be rationalised from the hypothesis with the polymer amount reduction. It is known that electrolyte tolerance of a polymer material becomes reduced as the amount of the polymer decreases. Because the required amount of the polymer is reduced with the synergistic system, the electrolyte tolerance is reduced, therefore the hydrogel system can exhibit quick breaking of the polymer network, which will be resulted in the sensory benefits.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC 0.00
-1.00 -2.00 -3.00 -4.00 -5.00 -6.00 -7.00 -8.00 -9.00
-10.00 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 Time (min) Figure 3: Cooling evaluation result of Luvigel® EM system. From the result of sensory evaluation in
Figure 2, it was concluded that the system with synergistic composition showed improved easy distribution, watery during distribution and less oiliness during distribution comparing by the system without synergistic composition.
Cooling performance In cooling performance evaluations of the system with/without the synergistic composition, it was revealed that the synergistic cooling property is exhibited by use of the emulsifier/solubiliser composition together with the emulsifying polymer in Figure 3. The electrolyte tolerance of the system is
reduced due to the required amount of the polymer is reduced with the synergistic system; therefore, the hydrogel system can exhibit quick breaking of the polymer network, which will result in the fast evaporation of water. Then the enhanced cooling performance can be achieved in Figure 3. It was concluded that the system with synergistic composition showed improved cooling performance in 10 minutes.
Conclusion The synergistic rheology property was identified, and it was revealed that lower amount of polymers and/or consistency agents is required by use of the synergistic system to exhibit the comparable rheology property of the conventional one. The sensory performance of formulation with synergistic composition was significantly better than conventional system in terms of key sensorial properties, i.e. fresh and light sensory, and the mechanism was rationalised in consideration of the electrolyte tolerance behaviour along with the polymer amount reduction. Meanwhile, the cooling performance of the synergistic composition was significantly better than conventional system.
As more men walk into the complex
world of beauty and skin care, the standards for skin hydration is expected to be pushed higher. Lotions or creams that simply “replenish hydration” is not enough to satisfy male users who are more open- minded, receptive and aware of skin care information and education. They are seeking products that appeal to them not only on the skin benefit level. More sophisticated expectations on hydrators and moisturisers are likely to arise. For instance, sensory will play an even more crucial role in male consumers’ decision on which products they will or will not include in their skin care routines. Due to biological differences to their female counterparts, there is no doubt that reducing greasiness and tackiness will remain one of the top concerns for men. Quick-absorbing, cool and fresh feeling hydrogels with no residue on the skin fit perfectly well with this aspect. Concluding with the results above, it is demonstrated that the Cool Quench system is an innovative solution to address the demands of the male grooming and skin care industry.
PC
References 1 Lochhead RY. The use of polymer in cosmetic
products, Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications 2017; 171-221
2 Patil A, Ferritto MS. Polymers for skin care and cosmetics: overview, Polymer For Skin Care And Cosmetics 2013; 3-11.
3 Zheng YJ, Loh XJ. Natural rheology modifiers for personal care, Polymers for Advanced Technologies 2016; 27(12): 1664-1679
4 Li YN, Zhao XM, Qu X. The rheological and skin sensory properties of cosmetic emulsions: influence of thickening agents, Journal of Cosmetic Science 2018; 69(1): 67-75.
5 Mintel 6
https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/press- release/
men-personal-care-market.html
November 2020 7 8 9 10 11 n ESPG-308 n ESPG-328
Percentage of temperature change (%)
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