50 ANTI-POLLUTION
the presence of calcium, and stimulates the calcium receptor to initiate intracellular mechanisms required for differentiation.5 These membrane complexes (desmoplakin to form DS, occludins and claudins to form tight junctions, and E-cadherin with its associated catenins and kinases to form adherens junctions) provide not only adhesion between cells but also a signalling complex that participates in changes in actin distribution and sustained increases in intracellular calcium. With this sustained increase in intracellular calcium, the cells begin to express in sequential fashion cytokeratins K1 and K10, involucrin and transglutaminase-I and loricrin and filaggrin.
Epidermal proteins essential for skin resistance and cohesion Skin epidermis is an efficient barrier against outside aggressors thanks to its stratified organisation of keratinocytes attached to each other by specific junctions, including DS. Moreover, during their differentiation, keratinocytes synthetised keratins (KRT), the major components of the epithelial cytoskeleton, responsible for maintaining their structural stability and integrity.6 KRT and DS are structures guaranteeing
the cohesion and mechanical strength of the epidermis (Fig 1). Their integrity allows effective cell communication essential to the harmonious functioning of keratinocytes. DS comprise proteins with a function compared to press studs that fasten cells one to each other. They are highly organised, building intercellular adhering and spots where filaments of cytokeratins are anchored. The formation of DS mostly takes place in the basal layer of epidermis, where it is favoured by the palissadic arrangement of keratinocytes, placed very near one to the other. Having a particular structure at the junction of the basal layer with the dermis (hemi-desmosomes), DS evolve from one layer to the other to end up in corneodesmosomes at the SC layer, where enzymes break them to favour the desquamation process. Skin barrier disruption and lack of calcium
are often associated. Since the reserve of calcium is perfectly stable in the epidermal vascular environment, this phenomenon occurs during ageing when calcium fixation
a a b
c
d
Figure 3: Stimulation of the expression of desmosomial proteins. a) Non-treated keratinocytes, b) keratinocytes treated with 0.2% Padina active, c) keratonocytes treated with 0.5% Padina active, d) keratinocytes treated with 1% Padina active.
and transport are disrupted leading to a decrease of the bioavailability of calcium in the epidermis. Optimising the pathway of calcium in the epidermis is an original way of preserving the skin youth.
Innovative Padina cosmetic active to maintain skin integrity even in pollution conditions Protectami®
ER COSMOS certified is an
active composed of a unique Padina extract in an organic glycerin carrier. The development of this ingredient was inspired by the analogy of the unique biology of Padina which uses calcium for its protection with the essential role of calcium in the skin barrier. Padina alga is sourced in French Polynesia in Moorea where species present high quality and efficient biological activity. In Polynesian lagoons, Padina lives all year round and grows to a depth of 50 cm allowing regular and easy harvesting. Their thalli are harvested by hand only with respect for nature, without any machine or equipment that could damage the marine soils. Once harvested, it is transported to processing
b
facilities to be washed with clean water (without chemicals) and then dried. INCI: Glycerin - Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract.
Efficacy test Protectami®
ER COSMOS certified (referred
to as ‘Padina active’) was tested to demonstrate its efficacy in maintaining and increasing the level of skin self-protection from pollution damages by boosting the synthesis of essential elements of epidermis resistance. Series of tests were carried out on Padina active to evaluate its efficacy in presence or absence of pollutants.
Stimulation of cytokeratin and desmosome synthesis to strengthen the skin barrier (in vitro tests) Keratins constitute not only the basic framework for epithelial cells but also allow the transduction of signals from the surrounding medium to the cell nuclei, thus ensuring a crucial role in both cohesion and intercellular communication. There is a steady decline in the synthesis of these proteins during ageing, which is accentuated in the presence of pollutants. Desmosomes are disk-shaped
c
Figure 4: Ex vivo test. Desmosomial proteins were made visible on skin sections. a) Skin at D0 - control, b) Cream with 1% nicotine D8, c) Cream with 1% nicotine + 4% Padina active.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC November 2020
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