TEXTURES 45
Texture enhancement from olive richness
n Alessandra Adduci, Stefania Zanzottera – ROELMI HPC, Italy
Nature has always been the major source of inspiration for the cosmetic world, and this remains especially true for the olive tree, traditionally and worldwide well-known since ancient times for its range of safe components, particularly suited for skin and body care. During human history, it was used as a
symbol of culture and purity. Many legends tell about olive: one of them is from Greek origin and tells the story of an olive tree coming from the world’s boundaries and a harvest by Hercules. The sacred grove of Zeus was born in this legendary place, from whose branches were woven wreaths for the winners of the Olympic Games. Since ancient times, the beneficial
effects of olive and its derivatives have been reported in the nutraceutical, medicinal and dermatological cosmetic fields. Related to cosmetic benefits, olive oil
presents a high dermo-compatibility thanks to the presence of triglycerides, elements naturally present in human skin. This compatibility translates to an exceptional skin tolerance and functionality Other beneficial effects of olive and its
derivatives are widely reported thanks to the presence of its main and most known principles: phytosterols and their esters, waxes, triterpene alcohols, squalene, α-tocopherol or vitamin E, vitamin A and vitamin K, ß-Carotene and chlorophyll, polyphenols (including hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol) as well as long-chained fatty acids and alcohols, mono-, di- and tri-glycerides. These numerous components are
present in olive oil: the saponifiable fraction represented by triglycerides and fatty acids, and the unsaponifiable content, even if present only in a small amount (0.5 – 2.0%), is very important for oil stability and flavour. Fatty acids: especially represented by
oleic acid, and in lower proportions palmitic stearic or linoleic acids. These components allow to regulate the skin’s natural hydration system by repairing the protective hydrolipidic film. Squalene: naturally present in human skin and produced by sebaceous glands, it
November 2020
constitutes a key component for hydrophilic film (responsible for integrity, through a protective barrier, and healthy appearance of skin surface). It limits water loss by perspiration; it is an excellent skin- moisturising agent; it prevents against entrance of microorganisms, and gives a specific elasticity to the skin. Antioxidants: especially represented by
vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A, vitamin K and polyphenols. In particular, hydroxytyrosol is one of the key compounds that helps to prevent free radical damage. All these precious components are able to neutralise the free radicals that cause skin damage and which allow olive oil to act as a skin moisturiser and protector. Other components: represented by
numerous compounds, traditionally known for their benefits. Olive oil is used as a key ingredient in a wide variety of soaps, creams, lotions,
shampoos and other cosmetic products. It acts as a perfect skin moisturiser (if applied to face or body, olive oil penetrates deeply into the skin and provides a long-lasting shield of hydration, for a supple and smooth skin), it is a simple solution for dry nails and cuticles, it can effectively remove makeup without irritating the skin and it can be also considered as a deep hair conditioner and a dandruff controller, leaving hair shiny and strengthened.
Development: sustainable esters from non-edible olive oil ROELMI HPC chose, for its path of growth and production, to pursue sustainable development in the continuing study and research of ingredients that meet the NIP® (No Impact In Progress) criteria in regards to: l Efficacy (high-performance ingredients tested and appreciated for their
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Abstract
This article is designed to prove the added value brought by a production process based on circular economy model: re-valorization of agro-food by-products to develop performing cosmetic ingredients. A range of sustainable esters has been developed through the valorization of Italian richness in agricultural heritage.
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