MEN’S GROOMING 25
Consistency*** 1
Less Waxy Feel
0.5 0
Absorption after 4min***
-0.5 -1
Peaking* Acceptance Low n ESPG-308 n ESPG-328
Consistency*** 1
0.5 0
Easy Distribution**
Absorption after 4min***
-0.5 -1
Low n ESPG-308 n ESPG-352 Peaking*
Easy Distribution**
Absorption after 1min***
distributing**
Less Oiliness while
Figure 2: Sensory evaluation result of Luvigel® EM system.
main component. The key ingredient used in hydrogel formulations is polymer, which provides a variety of functions like rheology modification, emulsification, film-forming, etc.1,2 Although rheology modification by polymers, which is frequently denoted as thickening, is crucial in creating a pleasant texture, it is concentration dependent.3
In addition, these
thickening polymers have different chemical structures which could influence the rheological properties as well as the sensory attributes of the formula.4
More residue or
noodling effect can occur due to high amount of polymer added to create the gel texture. Due to the polymer foundation of hydrogels, gel formulations can be heavy and sticky if the amount of polymer exceeds a certain point, which is the opposite to what hydrogels are designed to achieve in the first place. Therefore, there are compelling needs to
develop a hydrogel system that minimises the sticky and tacky sensation while offering fresh and light sensory properties. With the market strongly calling for lightweight and non-greasy skin care options, especially for men, enhanced fresh sensory without compromising the rheological property and the texture of hydrogel system becomes not only highly attractive but essential to the current market needs. Thanks to Cool Quench, it enables formulators to design and optimise hydrogel formulations with lightweight and watery sensory profiles.
Methods and materials The materials for test formulations were supplied by BASF SE (Ludwigshafen, Germany), which are caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, beheneth-25, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine and Luvigel®
mixture of caprylic / capric triglyceride and sodium acrylates copolymer, Cosmedia® ACE, which is a mixture of sodium polyacrylate, dicaprylyl carbonate and polyglyceryl-3 caprate, Tinovis®
GTC UP,
which is acrylates/beheneth-25 Methacrylate November 2020
Copolymer. Phenonip® XB was purchased
from Clariant AG (Muttenz, Switzerland). Butylene Glycol was purchased from Aldrich.
Rheology property evaluation The synergistic hydrogel system comprises a high molecular weight non-ionic emulsifier with di-alkyl chains, a solubiliser with an HLB value in the range of 15-20 and an emulsifying polymer. This combination was named as the Cool Quench system. To investigate the synergistic rheological profiles, simplex formulations were prepared by incorporating of different emulsifying polymers, sodium acrylates copolymer, sodium polyacrylate and acrylates/beheneth- 25 Methacrylate Copolymer, which are described in Table 1. The synergistic composition comprises a non-ionic emulsifier which is PEG-150 distearate and a solubiliser which is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. To investigate the rheology property,
viscosity at different shear rate was assessed by DV-II+ Pro viscometer (AMETEK
Brookfield, Middleboro, MA, USA). The samples were cooled down to 23°C and kept for 24 hours before the test.
Sensory evaluation To evaluate the sensory performance, the formulations used for rheology property investigation which are described in Table 1, 2 and 3 were evaluated, one comprises of synergistic composition while the other two do not. Sensory parameters were evaluated individually by trained panels with an objective test method (n=11). Before the sensory evaluation,
toxicology clearance was done by a toxicology review board and the sensory was evaluated by trained panellists on hands and forearms. The test was carried out in a room prepared in conformity with the DIN standards with a relative humidity of approx. 50% and a temperature of approx. 23°C. The evaluation was based on BASF’s standard sensory evaluation protocol.
Table 1: Compositions of test formulations for rheology evaluation and sensory evaluation Formulation for rheology evaluation and sensory evaluation ESPG-308 ESPG-328 ESPG-352 Trade Names
INCI Names Myritol® 312 Lanette® O Eumulgin® Luvigel® 1,3-BG EM, which is a
Water, demin Eumulgin® Eumulgin®
Phenonip®
EO 33 CO 40
XB Water, demin BA 25 EM
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cetearyl Alcohol Beheneth-25
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Butylene Glycol Aqua
PEG-150 Distearate PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben
Aqua
%w/w 10.00 1.50 2.00
2.00 5.00
%w/w 10.00 1.50 2.00
3.00 5.00
– –
%w/w 10.00 2.60 2.00
2.00 5.00
Add to 100 Add to 100 Add to 100 0.10 0.10
– –
0.40 5.00 0.40 5.00 0.40 5.00 PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Water while distributing**
Absorption after 1min***
distributing**
Less Oiliness while
Water while distributing**
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