TEXTURES 43
volatility comparable to volatile silicones. Due to the rapid absorption character it will supply a unique lightness and a long lasting elegant dry, powdery and supple sensation to your formulation. It reduces greasiness in W/O, O/W and even water-free oily formulations and adds elasticity and a smooth satin effect. In sun care formulations the natural silicone alternative positively influences stickiness and spreading. It can also reduce whitening effects of emulsions. In skin cleansing, the natural silicone
alternative could also prove its efficacy. In a test concerning the cleaning efficiency of makeup removers, a the natural silicone alternative-based formulation achieved better results compared to a benchmark product. Replacing silicones in hair care
formulations is a particular challenge. The natural silicone alternative has proven its suitability as an alternative to dimethicone 200 as a conditioning agent. The test confirms that the use of 1% natural silicone alternative versus 1% dimethicone 200 leads to comparable results in terms of wet combability, smoothness and shine (Fig. 7). The natural silicone alternative does not create build-up effects on hair or skin. Using Plantsil Xcite 100 in your
formulation means supplying excellent spreadability, smoothness and velvet sensation. It generates a delicate, protective and unique rich film without any residual greasy or tacky feeling. Thus, it offers a protective barrier effect that can prevent water loss. It is recommended for high spreading formulations, from sun care to baby care, with a perceptible care character offering a light and silky touch. Figure 5 shows the main effects in an emulsion formulation compared to dimethicone 100. It also shows conditioning effects in hair care.
n Dimethicone DC 200 fluid n Natura-Tec PlantsilTM 4
3.5 3
2.5 2
1.5 1
0.5 0
Wet combing Shine Smoothness Squeaky dean
Figure 7 : Performance in hair care. Looking for a super emollient that can
replace dimethicone 350 in skin care, Xcite 350 is the product of choice. The rich and smooth skin-feel without greasiness, in combination with protecting and nourishing character leaves the skin soft and velvety. The filming properties help prevent water loss and are also important in sun care and makeup applications. As with medium viscosity silicones, the protection and film effects are underlined by a slightly rich-tacky effect (Fig 6). Xcite 350 will supply richness and emolliency to your formulation. It is the best choice for premium skin care formulations as well as for hair care seeking to avoid the feeling of heaviness and accumulation of traditional silicones (“50+ Reveal Beauty Day Cream”
https://www.natura-tec.com/post/2024a-rbdc- 50-reveal-beauty-day-cream-1). An exciting use of the product is lip gloss
and care, where Xcite 350 supplies brilliant shimmering shine in combination with a
Formulation 1: 50+Reveal beauty Day Cream- 2004A-RBDC Phase Ingredients A
Deionized Water1 B
Satiaxant CX 911 (ACEF)1 Glycerin-Organic1 Plantsil™ Xcite 3501
Emulactive W1 Abysoft1
Vegetable Vaselin1 White Beeswax1 Cetearyl Alcohol Plantsil1
C BlueRevelation 50+™2 Rice Starch1
Natural Vitamine E Geogard ECT Citric Acid
Suppliers: 1 Natura-Tec 2 Natura-Tec Marine November 2020
Function Solvent
Rheology modifier Humectant
Natural alternative to medium viscosity Dimethicone
O/W emulsifier Moisturising agent
Natural alternative to Vaseline Stabiliser
Rheological modifier
Silicone-feel emollient and conditioning agent
50+ microalgae active for a global anti aging activity
Sensorial agent Antioxidant Preservative pH adjuster
% w/w 60.5 0.30 2.00 3.00
7.00
10.00 5.00 2.00 1.00 5.00
1.50
1.50 0.40 0.80 q.s.
nourishing character leaving elasticity without any feeling of dryness.
Conclusion The Natura-Tec Plantsil range offers a tool for formulating sustainable and innovative cosmetics. It displays that it is possible to replace synthetic raw materials with eco- friendly ingredients without compromising performance. This is our way of developing innovative,
green, multifunctional ingredients for Cosmetics 2.0, and we will continue to follow this path into the future.
References 1
https://echa.europa.eu/documents/
10162/1b8ab766-b3ff-840f-a0bd- f1ade391745d
2
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ ingredients/702011-DIMETHICONE/
3 https://application.wiley-
vch.de/books/biopoly/pdf_v09/vol09_15.pdf
4
http://www.dejayu.de/ein-abgesang-silikone- in-kosmetik-ohne-zukunft/
5
https://dermaviduals.de/deutsch/ publikationen/inhaltsstoffe/wie-sand-am-meer-
silizium-und-seine-verbindungen.html
6
https://inside-our-products.loreal.com/active- ingredients/silicones
7
https://www.chemicalbook.com/
ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB8469063.htm
8
https://www.ec.gc.ca/ese-ees/default.asp? lang=En&n=4996570F-1
9
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC5010604/
10
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/ abs/10.1002/mrm.1910290620
11
https://link.springer.com/chapter/ 10.1007%2F698_2018_363
12
https://link.springer.com/chapter/ 10.1007/698_2018_365
13
https://link.springer.com/chapter/ 10.1007%2F698_2018_363
14
https://www.de.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Silikone#Umwelt_und_Gesundheit
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC PC
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