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Natural-based ingredients with ‘silicone-like’ effects
n Charlotte Vignal, Lucie Brun, Pascale Goyat – Natura-Tec, France
Do you want to formulate naturally, but you like the smoothening and velvety effects of silicone? Do you prefer innovative natural performance ingredients to classical synthetic substances? Do you want to generate natural silicone-like effects and additionally have functional activity? Are you aware that silicone may not be the first choice because of possible negative effects on skin and environment? Whatever your reasons may be for
stepping away from silicone to green alternatives, this article will show you that nature offers it all. Intelligently selected and combined natural raw materials can replace a lion´s share of synthetic substances.
Main points of ‘silicone effects’ in cosmetics Silicones can have significantly varied effects due to their molecular structure. Important points are their adhesive, hydrophobic, conditioning and spreading properties. Depending on chain length and type,
they cover the following properties: long lasting, non-greasy character of velvety, smoothness and care from light to rich, hydrophobic film forming properties (decreasing TEWL), feeling of rapid
Spreadability Shine
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
absorption, although they cannot absorb, simulating a subjective skin regeneration that objectively does not exist.5 In hair care, silicones are used due to
filming and lubricant properties, creation of silky feel, ‘repair’ effects and easy combing.
Why silicones are not really trendsetting With a view to conserving resources, renewable raw materials and energy
n PlantsilTM n PlantsilTM n PlantsilTM
Xcite 350 Xcite 100
efficiency are becoming increasingly important and justifiably moving into the focus of new developments. Silicon does come from a natural source. However, to obtain silicones it undergoes an extensive chemical processing that leaves a huge ecological footprint and ultimately makes the resulting substance synthetic.7 Having done their job, either in hair or
skin care, the silicones are washed off or evaporate directly into the atmosphere. Whether and how pronounced and problematic their bio-accumulative effect on the environment is has not yet been finally clarified in all areas. The main critical point is the absolute hygroscopicity and therefore extremely low water solubility of most silicones (e.g. Polydimethylsiloxanes < 1ppm3
). This makes the start of biological
degradation processes difficult in a damp or watery environment. But many biodegradation processes on this planet take place in aqueous media. A point that is currently being criticised is that most of the tests that demonstrate good biodegradability of silicone are carried out in vitro, mostly in adapted systems. But there are also many ways for silicones to get past sewage treatment plants into the environment, where water solubility plays
Spreadability Greasy after feel Smoothness
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Protective residual film Greasy feel Absorption Tacky feel
Figure 1: Sensorial profiles of Plantsil™ Xcite 100, Plantsil™ Xcite 350 and Plantsil™.
November 2020 Tackiness Absorption
Figure 2 :Natura-Tec Plantsil™ vs Cyclomethicone D5 and Dimethicone DC 200.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
n Natura-Tec PlantsilTM n Cyclomethicone D5 n Dimethicone DC 200
Shine
Smoothness
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