14 NATURALS
starch can play an important role in application benefits such as oil adsorption as well as the visual perception of whitening. The attributes tend to have an inverse correlation with particle size, where smaller particles can provide more oil adsorption, but they have the negative drawback of increasing visual whiteness. As a result of the wide variety of plant
sources from which starch can be derived, it should not come as a surprise that the shape of the starch granule will vary. Tapioca starch typically provides a smooth feel on skin as a result of its truncated spherical shape. Maize starch can usually excel in its ability to mattify as a result of the rounded polygonal shape of its granules. Rice starch has a similar shape to corn, however, as a result of its distinctly small particle size, it tends to contribute more texture and less smoothness to a given application. Barley starch, meanwhile, is unique
compared to other starches because of its oblate spheroid granule or “M&M” shape. This shape is noted for its unique ability to pack in high densities.2
As a result of this
capability, barley starch can enable a multitude of sensory benefits compared to both other starches as well as other aesthetic modifiers.
Sensory benefit in skin and sun care Starch is an extremely versatile ingredient and is utilised for a variety of skin care applications because of the valuable benefits it can impart. Key benefits of using barley starch in skin care applications include its ability modify visual perception as well as absorb oil and improve the sensory performance of formulations. Barley, as a result of its fine particle size and unique morphology, can help provide a light-scattering effect in colour cosmetics, which can help blur the transition between covered and non-covered skin surfaces while providing a soft and smooth sensory experience. Another unique benefit of barley starch, as previously mentioned, is that it can absorb/adsorb oily ingredients and offer a more desirable sensorial property to the user of the final product. As previously described, the ability of starch to absorb oil is largely related to the particle size of the starch granule. Additionally, the visual and after-feel sensory attributes of a skin care product can be tailored according to the selection of starch and its morphology. Sun care formulations are a useful example
of how the inclusion of starch can mitigate the oily nature of the required levels of UV filters needed to obtain a certain SPF. Shown in Formulation 1 is a SPF 50+ sunscreen formulation that includes 5% barley starch. The formulation was also prepared using 5% PMMA and 5% Nylon-12.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Formulation 1: SPF 50+ Sunscreen (14797-28) Phase
Ingredients
A Deionized Water Dissolvine®
Water (Aqua) GL-47-S chelate
Propylene Glycol U.S.P. AMAZETM
XT polymer
Neo Heliopan AP Sodium Hydroxide
B Neo Heliopan® Neo Heliopan® Neo Heliopan®
Tinosorb® S
Neo Heliopan® Emulsiphos Tegosoft OS
303 OS 357 HMS
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Propylene Glycol
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate
Sodium Hydroxide (25%) Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Homosalate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT)
Octocrylene
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (and) Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Carbopol Ultrez 21 Cetiol B
C DERMACRYL® Microcare®
D Glycerin X Polymer PHC
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Dibutyl Adipate
Acrylates Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol (and) Chlorphenesin (and) Glycerin
Glycerol Aesthetic modifier
Table 1: Sensory Panel Performance. Attributes
Immediate feel
Spreadability Oiliness Gloss
Stickiness After feel
Slipperiness Residue
Powderiness Oiliness
Whitening *NSD = no significant difference. All three formulations were compared
by a trained sensory panel (n=8) with a pairwise comparison method; the results are listed in Table 1. In all sensory attributes evaluated there was no statistical difference between the barley and the synthetic alternatives. This formulation demonstrates the utility of barley and its ability to offer a more natural/cleaner option compared to synthetic ‘microplastic’ options while still providing excellent performance.
Dry shampoo Dry shampoo is by no means a recent innovation. Since Victorian times, various powders have been sprinkled on the hair to absorb oil and refresh a style. Arrowroot, corn starch and oatmeal have all been used to clean and refresh hair. Dry shampoos began to make a commercial appearance in the 1960s and 70s, with brands like “Pssst” promoting them as a way to provide clean, fresh hair without the need to shampoo. Dry shampoos of this
November 2020 INCI %
40.00 0.20 3.00
0.30 1.00 0.50
5.00 5.00
10.00 3.00 8.00 2.50 3.00
0.30 5.00 2.20
1.00 5.00
5.00
Amaze TM
Nordic Barley
Barley vs PMMA NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
Amaze TM
Nordic Barley
Barley vs Nylon-12 NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD NSD
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