38 TEXTURES
Ostwald ripening Figure 4:Ostwald ripening, coalescence, sedimentation. Moreover, contrary to esters obtained
using 12-HAS alone, the association with ricinoleic acid allows the creation of an emulsifier that does not thicken the oil phase in formulation. The emulsions are fluid and do not increase in viscosity over time.
No compromise on performance This ingredient is capable of emulsifying and stabilising any kind of W/O emulsions. Compared in formulation with existing emulsifiers on the market, this emulsifier demonstrates superior performance and stability. Its compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients – emollients, film formers, polymers, pearlescent agents,
OH OH HO O O O O O
O O
O OH O O
powders, stabilisers – has been validated. Flexible, easy to use, it enables the creation of ultra-fluid to thick textures without any co-emulsifier.
Cold processable Thanks to its liquid form at room temperature, this natural W/O emulsifier can be used in a cold process, depending on the other ingredients of the formulation. There are many interests. Indeed, the cold process saves time and energy since the ingredients are not heated, and thus significantly reduces the environmental impact of product manufacturing.
A unique sensory imprint The sensory profile of this natural W/O emulsifier is unique. It is characterised by a light and soft after-feel, providing a comfortable feel to the skin. The skin appears naturally glowy – but not shiny – and both looks and feels hydrated. It completely revolutionises the W/O formulation.
O HO O Greasy afterfeel O O
Conclusion Using this innovative W/O emulsifier offer new possibilities in the formulation of skin care products. First, it is possible to create rich textures without the greasy feel. It is therefore simpler to create hybrid
products between skin care and makeup or skin care and sun care because pigments and UV filters are mostly lipophilic. For this reason, W/O emulsions give superior results in terms of coverage and comfort.
PC
References 1 Turbulence and multiphase flow.
http://www.lowshearschool.com/?page_id= 16919
2 The effect of shear on oil-water mixture.
http://www.lowshearschool.com/?page_id= 16933
3 Zhu Q , Pan Y, Jia X, Li J, Zhang M, Yin L. Review on the stability mechanism and application of water-in-oil emulsions encapsulating various additives. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 2019; 18 (6): 1660-1675
Thickness HO O O Soft afterfeel
10 8 6 4 2 0
n 21 11-1.30 Facial cream n 2171-1.14 Primer n 2188-2.02 Body lotion
Speadability
Sedimentation
Coalescence
Softness
OH
Tacky afterfeel Film residue Figure 5: Chemical structure of Emulium Illustro. PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC Figure 6: Sensory profiles of three formulas containing Emulium Illustro. November 2020
Greasiness
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