18 SUN CARE
(France) have developed an in vitromethod to offer the industry a framework for IR protection claim substantiation. The results from these independent assessments show that formulations containing Infraveil IT-100 demonstrate IR protection efficacy. The increased knowledge and
understanding of the damage that the sun can do beyond UV radiation is driving a demand for broader spectrum protection from skin and sun care products. There has been a growth in consumer desire to protect the skin from both HEV and IR, and the necessity to be able to protect the skin from IRA is further reinforced by the research conducted by Croda. This research shows that DNA damage and ROS generation in fibroblasts is affected by IRA as it penetrates into the dermis. This means that brands are beginning to
put more emphasis on developing formulations that not only protect the skin from harmful UV rays, but also longer wavelengths of light such as IRA. In creating Infraveil IT-100, Croda has
developed a physical shield against IRA that can work in conjunction with UV filters, thus allowing formulators to provide broader spectrum protection in one product. Parsol Max and Parsol Shield from DSM
address the most contemporary issues consumers face today: the need for ultra- broad protection, and a safeguard against blue light emitted by digital devices. As a natural alternative, DSM offers Parsol ZX, an invisible all-mineral UV-filter that ensures effective protection against the sun’s rays and blue light. Parsol Max (INCI: Methylene Bis-
Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) is a photostable broad spectrum UV filter which delivers performance that breaks through the boundaries of UVB and UVA to continue into the blue light spectrum. Available as a ready-to-use dispersion which can be simply added into the water phase or at the end of the emulsion process, Parsol Max can be easily combined with all UV filters, in particular others from the Parsol portfolio. Parsol Shield (INCI: Bis-
Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) is a photostable broad-spectrum filter which efficiently contributes to UVB and UVA protection across the full range of application forms at low concentrations. Parsol Shield demonstrates excellent compatibility with both organic and inorganic UV filters and is readily compatible with other Parsol UV filters. As part of a holistic formulation the UV
filter supports high levels of water resistance due to its good solubility in organic oils. Parsol ZX (INCI: Zinc Oxide,
Triethoxycaprilylsilane) is an inorganic UV filter with a broad UVA−UVB absorption
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
curve that also goes into the blue light spectrum. DSM’s grade with a particle size ensures SPF and best UVA performance. Lubrizol Life Science – Beauty (LLS
Beauty) has introduced Sunhancer Eco SPF booster. It is a patent-pending, naturally- derived technology that increases SPF and is compatible with both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives. Sunhancer Eco SPF booster is non-nano,
inherently biodegradable and non- persistent in the environment. That means formulators are now able to reduce the quantity of UV filters in the formulation and potentially lower environmental impact while maintaining protection from the sun. Due to its distinct size and shape, Sunhancer Eco SPF booster can provide a powdery afterfeel to the formulation. Moreover, the reduction of UV filter
content enabled by Sunhancer Eco SPF booster tends to improve sunscreen aesthetics and lightness while reducing oiliness and drag. These additional benefits make it perfect for a daily sunscreen or a multitasking moisturiser with sun protection. Symrise’s newly-developed ingredient
SymEffect Sun combines the advantages of conventional sunscreen products with the increasing sustainability requirements of consumers. The ingredient was awarded first prize at the BSB Innovation Awards 2020 in the “Functionals” category. Cosmetics manufacturers are faced with
the challenge of developing modern sunscreen products that are highly effective and also meet the increased environmental awareness of consumers. Many consumers want responsibly-sourced, sustainable ingredients as alternatives to the raw materials frequently used in the past. The
formulation performance, stability and feeling on the skin should be similar to previous products. This also applies to sun protection products. Symrise says it has now succeeded in closing this gap and offers a solution with the functional ingredient SymEffect Sun. SymEffect Sun pursues a 360° approach,
offering a holistic way to meet the multiple challenges of modern sunscreen products. It comes from natural sources, increases the efficiency of the UV filters used and improves formulation stability. It also significantly improves water resistance. At the same time, the ingredient ensures a pleasant feeling on the skin after application of the sun protection product. Consumers do not want to feel the product. They want a light and dry feeling on their skin – without compromising on effectiveness.
Sunscreen preservation SharoSENSE Plus, from Sharon, is a bridge between synthetic and natural, bringing the best from nature with the safety, quality and consistency of a lab. SharoSENSE Plus answers the needs of the personal care industry for green and effective preservative systems. This line offers a natural-like solution, with increased solubility and is markedly strengthened by the role of cationic catalysis. This line is based on Maltol, a naturally occurring organic compound. The addition of a cationic surfactant component within a specific range increases the efficacy significantly to bring the level of use in final product to below 0.5%. This line offers several solutions, suitable for wide range of applications including sun care, face care, colour cosmetics and more.
PC November 2020
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