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SKIN CARE 63


Benefits of a novel collagen in skin care applications


n Dr Zhao Jianfeng - JLand Biotech, China


The Biollagen suite of products designed for use in skin care and medical procedures is derived from synthetic Pichia yeast. The patented process produces a non-allergic high-performance vegan-accredited collagen, with 200 times the performance levels of collagen extracted from bovine gristle. A study to determine the efficacy of


Biollagen in skin care applications was conducted with a half-face assessment of two formulations, one containing a novel collagen (INCI name: sh-polypeptide-123, Trade Name: Biollagen) from JLand Biotech Ltd and a placebo formulation, in a panel of female volunteers with signs of premature facial ageing. Thirty-six (36) female volunteers age range 35 to 65 years were screened for the study, with 32 volunteers entering the study.


Materials and methods The following tests were conducted by Cutest, Cardiff, UK. The volunteers had visible signs of ageing on the face, such as fine lines, age spots (solar lentigines), open pores and uneven skin tone. The test products were randomly allocated to the left and right side of the face in a double-blind manner. Volunteers used the test product for ten (10) weeks, with assessments of the signs of ageing at baseline, prior to product use and after two (2), four (4), eight (8) and ten (10) weeks of product use. Photographs were also taken using a


Canfield Visia and analysed for facial features using the image analysis software. Skin moisturisation was measured by using


720 700 680 660 640 620 600


baseline week10 Figure 1: Change in parameter Pores between baseline and week 10. November 2020


a Corneometer and skin colour measured using a Chromameter.


Results The following statistically significant differences were observed between baseline and ten weeks between the side of the face treated with Product A (Biollagen) and Product B (marine collagen) in favour of Product A: l Change in image analysis parameter for Pores between baseline and week 10, but not for Product B.


l Increase in latent (unseen) UV spots for the Product B treated side of the face but not for the side treated with Product A. The study was conducted over the summer months in the UK, when the facial skin is exposed to higher levels of UV radiation. The differences in UV spots for the test


products suggests that Product A protected the skin from future skin ageing, whereas Product B did not. As the formulations contain no sun screening ingredients, this suggests Product A is able to inhibit UV induced skin changes by an alternative mechanism and may help to prevent future signs of skin ageing. l Chromameter analysis of skin colour and lightness showed that the side of the face treated with Product A was 2% lighter than the side treated with Product B. This supports the finding regarding the analysis of UV spots and suggests that Product A is able to lighten skin tone, even when the skin is exposed to


n Product A n Product B


Table 1 Score -3 -2 -1 0


+1 +2 +3


UV radiation, as in the summer. The difference between the sides of the face treated with Product A and Product B was highly statistically significantly different after 10 weeks.


l The chromameter parameter a*, which measures colour on the green to red axis, showed a decrease in redness for the side of the face treated with Product A and an increase in redness for the Product B treated side over the study.


l Moisturisation of the skin was shown to increase for the side of the face treated with Product A from week 4 onwards, whereas there was no change for the side treated with Product B. At week 10, there was a 16% higher mean corneometer value for Product A than Product B, a highly statistically significant difference. As the two formulations have the same vehicle, the difference is likely to be due to the difference in the active being present in one product and not the other.


l From the blind assessment of paired, randomized images, there was a statistically significant (p=0.004) positive change in skin appearance between 0 and 10 weeks for the active treated side of the face, compared to the placebo treated side. The active treated side was seen to increase in appearance score, whereas the placebo side decreased in score, indicating a visibly improved appearance for the active side and a visibly worsened appearance for the placebo side.


Description


Image A markedly worse than Image B Image A moderately worse than Image B Image A slightly worse than Image B No difference


Image A slightly better than Image B Image A moderately better than Image B Image A markedly better than Image B


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


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