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The gearbox and aluminium sheet were laid face-down and clamped securely together. on a flat support plate. Transfer punches were used to mark the exact centres of all the bell-housing bolt positions and a line was scribed all around the casing.
Transfer punches are basically drill blanks with a ground centre-punch point on the end. A set like this one isn't too expensive and covers most popular metric and imperial sizes. If they're a little slack in the hole, a single layer of paper or masking tape around them will make them tight enough to transfer the hole centre to within a few thou.
Then came the laborious task of hacking away a few kilos of waste material. I opted to retain the Ford starter and either the standard flywheel or a flex-plate from an auto transmission. This meant machining away clearance for the ring-gear on the engine side of the adapter - which is just what is happening in the picture below.
The template sheet was trimmed to the scribed profile line and all the punch marks on drilled through 1mm. I then clamped the template to the adapter blank with the pilot hole dead-centre. I spotted through all the 1mm holes with a 1mm drill then mounted the blank on our Triumph lathe.
In the following picture you can see the 28mm deep rebate for the ring-gear in the 40mm plate leaving a 12mm thick mounting flange for the Porsche Transaxle. I've tapped the mounting threads for the Ford starter and I'm just positioning it on some studs to mark the position of the starter nose which will stick through the adapter.
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