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I decided to use 75mm flexible ducting to connect the fan to the heater box but to minimise the depth of the plenum I decided to 'squash' the inlet to an oval 60mm x 97mm. A 265mm x 60mm wide strip of 1mm aluminium will allow an 10mm overlap and a 15mm mounting flange. I used countersunk pop rivets, flattened on the inside to join the strip. Snip around the bottom edge at approximately 15mm spacing and fold up the tabs at each end with a pair of pliers. Don't fold up the tabs on the longer sides.
There are numerous fan options for your box. If you have room, you can mount the fan outlet directly to the rear of the heater box. For our example, I've chosen an angled plenum that will allow remote mounting of the fan and connection with lightweight ducting. This will allow much more flexibility in mounting the components in a compact cabin. Similar construction methods apply. Here's the cardboard template
To cut the hole, mark around your squashed flange and us- ing a step drill, hole saw or even a line of 3mm holes remove the waste material. Again, our DVD will show you several ways to achieve this. Three or four rivets is sufficient to secure the flange in posi- tion. Here you can see why we leave the tabs on the long sides of the inlet oval.
You can secure the plenum with rivets or even short self tappers if you wish. If a top inlet is inappropriate for your installation, just redesign the plenum with a side inlet or simply turn the heater box on it's side.
And the marked-out aluminium sheet.
RUBBER ELBOW You could also use our tight 90 degree rubber bends. One end has a groove that fits into a 45mm hole and the other end is 45mm ID. You can bond 38mm ducting inside with Polyurethane or Silicone sealant or 50mm
ducting on the outside. #RUBELB £7.50 (£9 inc vat) ONLINE
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