HAIR CARE 77 *p<0.10 to vehicle
Vehicle conditioner+ 1% HJE
*
Vehicle
0
2
4
6 increased loss in curl (cm) Figure 4: Evaluation of curl loss length post test article application on non-textured hair.
Discussion The ability of an ingredient to condition hair is the summation of multiple tests, including those discussed within this paper. It is not always the case that an ingredient that performs well on non-textured hair types will also perform well on textured hair types. The current research shows how the substantivity of HJE are ideal for multiple hair types. When wet comb force was compared
between textured and non-textured hair, HJE performed similar, and provided significant improvement over the vehicle formula. It was also noteworthy that the vehicle did not perform as well on textured hair (likely due to a lack of deposition after rinse-off), and therefore the benefit provided by HJE was far greater than for non-textured hair. This data also correlates
*p<0.05 to vehicle 100
well with heat protection efficacy (i.e. less breakage after heat application and repeat grooming) on non-textured hair since when the hair takes less force to comb through, less breakage is likely to occur. Hair shine was only evaluated on
textured hair, but was evaluated both with and without heat. In the case of heat (i.e. flat ironed straight enough to remove inherent texture), it can be expected that performance seen would be similar to non- textured hair. The deposition of HJE on the hair leaves the hair shinier than without. Previous research has also shown that although conditioning benefits can be seen due to the deposition of HJE, this deposition does not leave the hair heavy, as perceived by consumers.1 Another important conditioner benefit is the ability to style hair once dry and how well
n Vehicle conditioner+1% HJE n Vehicle conditioner
hair continues to hold its style when exposed to environmental elements. Evaluating frizz determined how well hair that is not naturally straight held a heat-straightened style. In the case of textured hair, HJE reduced frizz by 59% (i.e. helped prevent the hair from reverting back to its curlier natural state) compared to the vehicle after exposure to high humidity. This is similar to previous evaluations made on non-textured hair.1
Curl
retention evaluations determined how well hair that is naturally straight held a wet-set style. Results were similar to the heat styles results, and curls held longer (i.e. dropped less) with the inclusion of HJE versus without.
80
Conclusion The present research indicates that hydrolysed jojoba esters condition textured hair similar to non-textured hair types; providing valuable functions such as reductions in comb force and breakage, increased shine, heat protection, and style longevity. This makes HJE ideal for rinse- out hair conditioner formulas geared towards multiple hair types, as well as those developed to meet the growing trend of black women with textured hair going natural.
PC 60 *
References: 1 Oliphant T, Harper R. Performance analysis of
hydrolysed jojoba esters in hair care applications, SOFW Journal 2018; 144(1+2): 26-29.
40
2 Mintel Press Team, Naturally confident: more than half of black women say their hair makes them feel beautiful. Black Haircare US 2018 report, (2018).
20
3 Forney CF, Brandl DG. Control of humidity in small controlled environment chambers using glycerol-water solutions, Technology & Product Reports 1992; 2(1): 52-54.
0 Figure 5: Evaluation of the number of broken hair fibres post test article application on non-textured hair. August 2020
4 Jarou Z. Measuring leaf area with Adobe Photoshop 3, You Tube, (2009).
5 Evans T. Practical Modern Hair Science. (Allured Books, Carol Stream, IL, 2012), 510-512.
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
8
10
# of broken hair fibers
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
