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SKIN CARE 21


Rayon/polyester compound


Hexylglycerin Cyclohexylgly.*


Phenoxy Et Me-Paraben


CapGly ** EHG


0


* Cyclohexlglycerin ** Caprylyl Glycol


Figure 10: Adsorption rate for non-wovens.


a result it is confirmed that cyclohexylglycerin 1% with keratin has the same effect as benzyl alcohol. Relying on the above results and using cyclohexylglycerin as an alternative to benzyl alcohol, safer hair cosmetics can be produced.


Irritation performance test The following tissue viability test underlines the lower irritation of hexylglycerin. Reconstructed human cultured epidermal model was used (LabCyte EPI-MODEL, Japan Tissue Engineering Co., Ltd). The tissues were exposed to the test


materials and incubated with the assay medium for 24 hrs. (37°C, 5% CO2


). The


tissues were then transferred to MTT medium and incubated for 3 hrs. (37°C, 5% CO2). After incubation, the tissues were extracted with isopropanol (IPA) and absorbance was measured. The tissues treated by hexylglycerin keep higher tissue viability than existing glycols. Therefore, it is expected that skin irritation is lower.


Adsorption into fabrics and face masks Another positive feature of both hexylglycerin and cyclohexylglycerin is that they both have lower adsorption into various fabrics than e.g. phenoxy ethanol, methyl paraben, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerin. Hence, hexylglycerin and cyclohexylglycerin can easily stay in any wet wipe solution while still maintaining an adequate antimicrobial effect at low concentration. Figure 10 shows the advantage in the wet wipe applications . The test was conducted as follows:


A non-woven fabric was soaked in each test solution (3 times the amount of the fabric). After 2 weeks, squeezed solutions were analysed by gas chromatography,


August 2020 n Isopropyl myristate n Triethylhexanoin Hexylglycerin Canrylyl glycol 20 40 60 80 100 0 20 40 60 80 100 0 20 40 60 Adsorption rate for each fabric after 2 weeks (%) 80 100 Pulp Cotton


Phenoxyethanol Ethylhexlglycerin


Methylparaben 0 20 40 60 Residual ratio in water phase (%) Figure 11: Residual ratio in water phase.


leading to the results that both hexylglycerin and cyclohexylglycerin are less adsorbed into non-woven fabrics than parabens and conventional glycols. As they are more likely to stay in solutions, they are useful preservative boosters for various types of non-woven fabric products (e.g. wet wipes and face masks). The face mask market is expanding year by year both in Asia and Europe. Two methods were conducted to challenge the application in face masks. The first method evaluated face masks with non-woven fabrics while the second method evaluated only the solution. After two weeks it was found that phenoxyethanol is only effective against mould in the pure solution, while mould increased in the solution with non-woven fabric. Hexylglycerin on the other hand, was


effective in both solution and the product form with non-woven fabrics.


Study in emulsion system Hexylglycerin also has positive attributes in terms of combination with oily ingredients. One of the reasons for the better combination is that it stays in the water phase and has a high water solubility. Therefore, it makes the preservation designs of emulsion systems a lot easier. Figure 11 examines the Water-Oil partition rate. 3 mL of water and oil were weight and 3 mg of the sample were added. After shaking the combinations, it is quantified by gas chromatography. In contrast to parabens and phenoxyethanol, hexylglycerin is not affected by oily ingredients. Compared to conventional preservatives, hexylglycerin and


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL 80 100


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