SKIN CARE 19


Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zingiber officinale (Ginger), Water, Lactobacillus Ferment, Beta Galactosidase positive cells increased by 70% to nearly 80%, clearly showing a damaging effect of the applied UVA radiation. Exposure of equivalent UVA power on human dermal fibroblast in presence of 2% Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zingiber officinale (Ginger), Water, Lactobacillus Ferment showed that the amount of senescent cells can be reduced by up to 40% compared to cells without Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zingiber officinale (Ginger), Water, Lactobacillus Ferment. Therefore, it can be said that Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Zingiber officinale (Ginger), Water, Lactobacillus Ferment may protect against extrinsic ageing of skin cells through preventing cells from entering the senescent state after UVA radiation (Fig 3).


Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment is suitable for skin and hair care cosmetics, especially for milk lotions, masks and shampoos. It is high in vitamin C, E, B-1 and B-3, is antimicrobial and has a moisturising effect. A study furthermore has shown that Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment boosts the synthesis of Collagen type I and III. Collagen type I and III are the major collagen components and are responsible for providing tensile strength to the connective tissue including the skin. In this study, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment was investigated on human keratinocytes for stimulation of Collagen I and III expression by immunohisto-staining. By exposing human skin cells to 2% Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment, the collagen content increased by 50% and 155% for Collagen I and III, respectively, compared to untreated cells. Hence, it is expected that Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Juice, Lactobacillus Ferment may stimulate collagen expression and therefore may strengthen the connective skin tissue, eventually stimulating the remodelling of the extracellular matrix (Fig 4).


Pyrus malus (Apple), Fruit Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Lactobacillus Ferment Pyrus malus (Apple), Fruit Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Lactobacillus Ferment is suitable for skin and hair care cosmetics as well as for colour cosmetics and has refreshing, regenerating and revitalising properties. It has also been found that Pyrus malus (Apple), Fruit Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Lactobacillus Ferment can inhibit proinflammatory Lipoxygenase enzymes. Lipoxygenases (e.g. LOX-5) are


August 2020 strong


Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether


natural Paraben


Ethylhexylglycerin Caprylyl Glycol


Hexylglycerin synthetic & natural


Phenoxy Et. Cyclo- hexylglycerin


PG, DPG 1.3-BG


weak


Low strong


Water solubility Skin irritation


high strong


Higher water solubility & Lower skin irritation


Figure 6: Performance of cyclohexylglycerin and hexylglycerin. Spreadable


130 120 110 100 90 80 70


Slippery Gooey


0.4


Water Glycerin


Butylene Glycol


Dipropylene Glycol


Cyclohexylglycerin 0.6 0.8 1.0 Coefficient of friction Figure 7: Texture modification with cyclohexylglycerin.


key enzymes in pro inflammatory processes by catalysing the synthesis of leukotrienes. The inhibition of LOX-5 activity negatively effects the biosynthesis of leukotrienes and prevents the inflammatory process in the skin. The 5-LOX enzyme is activated in presence of linoleic acid as substrate. By addition of Nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA), a potent LOX-5 inhibitor, the LOX- 5 enzyme activity is strongly inhibited by up to 93%. In presence of 1% Pyrus malus (Apple), Fruit Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Lactobacillus Ferment, the previously activated enzyme was inhibited by up to 57%. Therefore, Pyrus malus (Apple), Fruit Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf, Lactobacillus Ferment represents an effective natural inhibitor of the pro inflammatory LOX-5 enzyme in contrast to the synthetic positive control NDGA (Fig 5).


Conclusion Prebiotic bio-fermented fruit extracts improved by LAB fermentation offer many benefits for personal care applications, while being 100% natural. Especially in the current trend of natural products, ADEKA’s Cosmos approved prebiotic bio-fermented fruit extracts can add the final extraordinary touch to all kinds of cosmetic formulations.


Cyclohexylglycerin & hexylglycerin Cyclohexylglycerin & hexylglycerin are efficient boosters categorized as humectants. Cyclohexylglycerin can be used for preservative free systems and has good emulsion stability, penetration enhancer effect and low adsorption in/onto fabrics. It boosts the efficacy of new preservatives and prevents degradation by bacteria stabilizers when used in


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL 1.2 1.4


Light Natural


Effect for microorganism


Contact angle (º)


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