SKIN CARE 25
Analysing vitamin D and skin hydration
n Harald van der Hoeven, Dr. Heiko Prade – CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter, Germany
Over the past decade the world has gone through tremendous changes. The world’s population increasingly follows stricter and more frequent personal hygiene practices. Significantly more consumers now use high SPF sun protective products than a few decades ago. Urbanisation has led to a significant increase in the number of people working and living indoors, often in a heated or air-conditioned, environment. The COVID-19 crisis has had an additional dramatic impact on the fact that people remain indoors. In short, on average our skin is
increasingly exposed to influences which promote skin dryness (dry environment, personal hygiene) and decreasingly exposed to sunlight. Sunlight provides our skin with the ability to produce vitamin D and decreased exposure to UV light leads to a deficiency in vitamin D in the human body. In addition to the above, the capability
to produce vitamin D is inversely correlated to people’s age. As we know, demographically, the world population is ageing. Interestingly, a chronic lack in systemic vitamin D (‘hypovitaminodosis D’) is described to be linked to specific hallmarks of ageing.
Vitamin D and the skin The role of vitamin D in those processes in the skin which are vital for its ability to bind water have been described in scientific literature. Vitamin D deficiency is common in people suffering from atopic dermatitis, a skin disease which is associated with reduced skin barrier function and skin dryness. Additionally, vitamin D is an important initiator of filaggrin production, which is of particular note in this context, filaggrin being the most important raw material for the production of the Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). In more detail, the so-called vitamin D
receptor (VDR) is essential for epidermal differentiation. The VDR is the receptor to which vitamin D binds to elicit its biological effects. Interestingly, the presence of vitamin D leads to an increase in the
August 2020 n no FBComplex n 1% FBComplex
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
No Seocalcitol 1nM Seocalcitol
Figure 1: Influence on expression of the VDR after 72 hours of incubation of normal human epidermal keratinocytes with and without the presence of seocalcitol and FBComplex.
expression of the VDR. In this sense, vitamin D is able to potentiate its own biological effects, as with more VDR, beneficial biological processes which lie downstream of the activation of the VDR are activated more effectively. An increase in expression of the VDR leads to an improvement of epidermal differentiation, which, as suggested above, includes an increase in filaggrin production and, therefore, more moisturised skin.
Making the most of our vitamin D A lack of vitamin D can possibly, at least partly, be compensated for by the use of oral vitamin D supplements. Another approach, supporting the skin, is to allow the epidermal keratinocytes to make better use of the little vitamin D which is present. Increasing the production and activation of the VDR leads to a higher probability for vitamin D to elicit its beneficial effects for the skin. CLR Berlin developed MultiMoist CLR™ (FBComplex, INCI: Fructooligosaccharides, Beta Vulgaris (Beet)
Root Extract, Water). In vitro and in vivo studies were performed with FBComplex with the purpose to prove its beneficial effects on production and activation of the vitamin D receptor and its properties as a moisturising active ingredient.
In vitro results, Influence on VDR expression and activation It was assessed whether FBComplex was able to potentiate vitamin D–induced effects on expression of the VDR and its activation. Here normal human epidermal keratinocytes were incubated for 72 hours with and without the presence of seocalcitol (a calcitriol analogue, calcitriol is the biologically active form of vitamin D) and FBComplex. Results obtained on VDR expression are
presented in Figure 1. VDR expression without the presence of seocalcitol or FBComplex is set at 100%. Corresponding results relevant to the activation of the VDR (VDR-SerP) are presented in Figure 2. The treatment with FBComplex led to
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
Production of the VDR %
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