26 SKIN CARE n Placebo n 3% FBC Complex
160 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
no Seocalcitol 1nM Seocalcitol
Figure 2: Influence on the activation of the VDR (VDR-SerP) after 72 hours of incubation of normal human epidermal keratinocytes with and without the presence of seocalcitol and FBComplex.
pronounced results as compared to the treatment with seocalcitol alone. The addition of FBComplex to seocalcitol clearly showed the potentiating effects of FBComplex. This leads to the conclusion that FBComplex can amplify the effects of vitamin D. Additional in vitro studies showed results
which were in line with the above. Through its action on the VDR, FBComplex was shown to support epidermal growth.
In vivo approaches to proving skin hydrations Regulatory bodies and competent authorities are increasingly demanding cosmetic claim support and the substantiation of cosmetic claims. The consumer too wants proven results. The times of ‘hope in a jar’ are largely gone. Proving the moisturising effect of a
cosmetic product sounds easy enough, but the fact of the matter is that it is a complex endeavour. The efficacy of skin moisturisers is best proven both objectively, using high- end methodology, and subjectively, in
25 20 15 10 5 0 Placebo 3% FBComplex
Figure 4: Relative improvement of skin moisture after 1 application on dry skin (%). Measured with Corneometer CM825™ 2 hours after application.
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
t=2 h t=4 h t=8 h n Placebo n 3% FBC Complex
Figure 3: Relative improvement of skin moisture after 1 application on normal skin (%). Measured with Corneometer MPA 5 CPU.
relation to the average consumer’s perception of dry skin vs. moisturised skin. The known measuring techniques
quantifying the hydration level in the skin are not flawless. To be able to draw ‘watertight’ conclusions from the results obtained, a combination of techniques is best used. Additionally, the ‘hydration’ level as measured with these techniques, do not necessarily correlate with consumer perception of hydrated vs. dry skin. Dry skin feels rough and looks dull to the consumer. These parameters must therefore be quantified as well. Lastly, a consumer study should be performed in order to validate the results obtained with the instrumental methods. In our studies we first used skin
capacitance as a parameter of skin hydration. For this, 2 types of the Corneometer were used (CM825 and MPA 5 CPU, Courage & Khazaka electronics). Additionally, the MoistureMap technology (MoistureMap®
MM 100 (Courage &
Khazaka electronics) was used. This is a ‘capacitance imaging’ technology giving
6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Placebo 3% FBComplex
Figure 5: Relative improvement skin moisture after 1 application on dry skin (%). Measured with MoistureMap®
MM 100 2 hours after application. August 2020
graphical information on the near surface hydration distribution over a larger skin area. After that, a Moisture Accumulation Test (MAT) was performed with a Novameter DPM 9003 (NOVA Technology Corp). The MAT gives information about the quantity of moisture the SC may accumulate during a given time. It is well- described in literature that decreased NMF content (i.e. a decreased ability to bind water) correlates with lower water accumulation during the MAT. Where the above technologies only give
quantitative information on ‘water in the stratum corneum’, two other technologies were used to address the more subjective aspects of skin hydration. Squametry (“skin dryness evaluation”) was performed with Diagnoskin System®
(Laboratoire BIO-EC).
By tape stripping the surface of the skin, the loosely adherent portion of the SC sticks to the adhesive. The scales can be automatically sized and counted to give a measure of the degree of skin dryness, correlating to skin appearance. Dry skin is perceived to be rough. Skin roughness was
Increase in skin hydration %
Activation of the VDR %
Increase in skin hydration %
Increase in skin hydration %
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