SKIN CARE 51
be more sustainable as the use of these natural hydrocolloids are growing each year. They give rise to a wide range of new, unique textures depending on the combinations used as there are so many synergies to be discovered from endless combination possibilities. The synergy between this wide range of natural rheology modifiers and thickeners, as already exploited in the food industry, offers so many possibilities for applications within personal care. The formation of these jelly textures is a natural progression to address the needs of the formulators for fun yet functional formats. The Golden Touch Eye Mask has been
developed by the Azelis Personal Care team from China, using a synergistic blend of carrageenan, locust bean and cellulose gum to create the perfect shape and texture to mould to the shape of the under eye for the highest contact due to its damp solid gel texture, allowing optimal hydration and firming of the skin. The final addition of the gold pearlescent pigment gives the product a more unique and appealing look, adding a touch of luxury with a higher impact and greater radiance.
Acidic masks In the US, 62% of facial skin care users are mostly interested in the efficacy of their skin care products and not caring much about trends (Mintel “BPC trends” 2019). As a result, a format which is gaining in popularity is the acidic mask, with a peeling effect rather than a physical exfoliation. The Azelis Personal Care team from the US has developed the Exfoliating PHA Face Mask which uses Gluconolactone, a plant- based Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA) which is suitable for use for all skin types, including sensitive skin, to gently exfoliate dirt and impurities away. This mask helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tones and it leaves the face with a radiant glow. It is simply applied as an even layer onto a clean, dry face, thereby making sure to avoid the lip and eye area, and left on for 15 minutes. The mask is then removed by using a damp wash cloth.
Body masks With the above formulations, we presented several facial masks but let us not forget that masks are not for facial use only. Masks are an effective way of hydrating skin on any part of the body, from top to bottom. The Azelis EMEA Personal Care team has developed the Ayurveda Phyto Mask which delivers a spa experience for the consumer and can be used all over the body to improve skin tone, promote cleansing and detoxify the skin against environmental aggressors. It is applied evenly to the skin and left for 15 minutes to obtain all the benefits, and removed before it dries, for ease of removal.
August 2020
Formution 4: Ayurveda Phyto Mask Phase INCI
A
Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Ethyl Oleate
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Chlorella vulgaris powder, Ribes nigrum Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil Tocopherol
B
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract Aqua
Butylene Glycol
Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate Xanthan Gum Stevioside
C
Glycerin, Water, Asparagus Racemosus Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol Fragrance
Formution 5: Strawberry Lip Mask Phase INCI
A
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Petrolatum Silica
Allantoin Isononyl Isononanoate B
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Tocopheryl Acetate Parfum Dye
The formulation utilises a natural
emulsifier which results in a mask that leaves the skin feeling fresh and smooth, with an extraordinary moisturised and nourished sensation. Its lipid fraction fits perfectly with the stratum corneum, restoring the structural balance of the lipid film making it ideal for its use in mask formulations.
Anhydrous formulations Another trend which has been growing as highlighted in Mintel’s “2025 BPC trends” report, is that water is the new luxury. This has led to a huge increase in the market of anhydrous formulations for all product categories and formats. The Azelis EMEA Personal Care team developed a Strawberry Lip Mask which is applied before going to bed. The formulation has a texture which is not greasy nor sticky and has a pleasant lip feel which prevents
%w/w 6.00
0.50 0.50 6.00 7.50 1.00 1.00 0.10 1.00
68.80 5.00 1.00 0.30 0.30 1.00 0.50
%w/w 30.00 47.80
2.00 0.20 8.00
10.00 1.00 1.00 q.s. q.s.
lips from becoming dry or cracked while you sleep. The lip mask moisturises the lips due to a combination of jojoba oil with petrolatum and a gelled hydrogenated polyisobutene which reduces TEWL and therefore promotes hydration.
Conclusion Many more options are available for masks due to the endless possibilities of raw material combinations to achieve a wide range of textures, as well as the acceptance of so many different formats ranging from sheets to creams, water-based to anhydrous, quick solutions to masks which take time, allowing today’s consumer to slow down. This category of skin care product is the perfect example that there is no need to compromise your skin care needs; you just have to find the right match for your needs and skin.
PC PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
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