46 ANTI-AGEING a n Natpure Xtra Eternity n Benchmark Cocoa
50% 25% 0%
-25% -50% -75%
-100% c
25 20 15 10 5 0
56 Time (days) ** b
elasticity and 73% observed a visible decrease of wrinkles.
Stronger barrier and hydrated skin The anti-ageing active fortifies the cornified layer of the epidermis for a stronger barrier and a hydrated skin. The cornified envelope of the epidermis
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is of the upmost importance as it protects the skin against external aggressors (i.e. UV rays and pathogens) and limits water loss. In aged skin, the cornified envelope is disrupted, inducing dehydration. Following water loss, the skin becomes scaly, flaky, and itchy. Genetic data shows that the cocoa bean anti-ageing active strongly increases the expression of genes that prevent this disruption (see Figure 4A). In reconstituted skin, the anti-ageing active enhances skin hydration as revealed by AQP3 expression levels. AQP3 is a gene that code for the Aquaporin-3 pore that facilitates the movement of water between cells.9
Its expression increases under dry
Figure 2: (A) Natpure Xtra Eternity and a benchmark cocoa extract differentially modulate the gene expression of ECM degradation enzymes. (B) Improvement of skin firmness measured by a Cutometer®
after 84 days of Natpure Xtra Eternity use.
(ECM) from degradation for a smooth and firm skin. The anti-ageing active contains strong antioxidant molecules Theobromine, Caffeine and Epicatechin.4, 5
These
compounds strengthen the cutaneous defences against UV oxidative stress, a major cause of skin ageing.6
Indeed,
oxidation triggers the production of enzymes that degrade the dermal ECM, a network of collagen and elastin.7, 8
This
deterioration is responsible for saggy skin as well as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In reconstituted skin, the cocoa bean anti-ageing active shows a direct action on this pathway, lowering the gene
expression of the primary degrading enzymes while a benchmark cocoa extract does not (see Figure 2A). A clinical trial confirmed these protective effects in vivo. Twenty-six women between the ages of 47 and 65 years old used a 2% concentration of the cocoa bean anti-ageing active twice a day for three months. Participants showed an 18% increase in skin firmness, as well as a reduction of wrinkles (see Figure 2B and 2C). A majority of volunteers reported a visible smoothing and firming effect after 3 months (see Figure 3). Additionally, 77% of participants observed enhanced skin firmness, 81% observed an increase of skin
Firmness 77%
. (C) Silicon footprints made on a crow’s foot area at the beginning of the clinical assay and
stress to limit dehydration. That effect does not occur in the presence of the cocoa bean anti-ageing active, indicating a moisturised skin (see Figure 4B and 4C). This effect has also been confirmed in vivo. Participants observed improved hydration after one application and after continued use (applying twice a day for 84 days), hydration levels increased three-fold (see Figure 4D).
Conclusion Natpure Xtra Eternity is an anti-ageing active ingredient from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies that is not only sourced ethically and produced cleanly, but is also proven clinically. Its capacity to diminish signs of ageing, as related to a visible reduction of wrinkles, enhanced hydration and skin firmness, has been confirmed by in vitro and in vivo studies. These benefits occur rapidly and provide long-lasting results thanks to its strong biological activity.
PC
References 1 Mogollon JA, Boivin C, Lemieux S, Blanchet C,
Claveau J, Dodin S. Chocolate flavanols and skin photoprotection: A parallel, double-blind, randomized clinical trial. Nutrition Journal 2014; 13(1).
2 Abdul Karim A, Azlan A, Ismail A, et al. Phenolic composition, antioxidant, anti- wrinkles and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of cocoa pod extract. BMC Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2014; 14(1).
73%
Visibility of the wrinkles
81% Elasticity
Figure 3: Clinical participants’ evaluation of the efficiency of Natpure Xtra Eternity to reduce the visibility of wrinkles and increase the firmness and elasticity of skin.
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
3 Yoon H-S, Kim JR, Park GY, et al. Cocoa Flavanol Supplementation Influences Skin Conditions of Photo-Aged Women: A 24-Week Double-Blind, Randomized, Controlled Trial. The Journal of Nutrition 2016; 146(1): 46–50.
4 Scapagnini G, Davinelli S, Di Renzo L, et al. Cocoa bioactive compounds: Significance and
August 2020
Gene expression (% of basallevel)
Skin firmness improvement (%)
MMP3
MMP9
ADAMTS2 PLAT
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