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28 SKIN CARE n Placebo n 3% FBC Complex


70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


0 4 8 12 16 20 24hours


Figure 9: How do you judge the moisturising effect of the formulation?


lasting moisturising effect as well, 35% better than its corresponding placebo. Here too, in the comparison with the benchmark moisturising ingredient, FBComplex clearly showed superior results. After 21 days the moisturising effect of FBComplex was 10% better than that of the benchmark. Where the direct moisturising properties


of FBComplex might be accounted for by its inherent ability to support the skin in effectively binding water, the long-term moisturising properties, measured up to 16 hours after the last application of the test formulation, clearly indicates that FBComplex is able to support the skin in producing its own water-binding ingredients (e.g. NMF) too.


Squametry The assessment of the moisturising efficacy of FBComplex, squametry was performed on 22 volunteers with dry skin. With this approach the visual dryness of skin was determined using a technology which allows for the analysis of images of squames and scales on tape strips. This was performed after 21 days of twice daily application of test formulation and, as with the MAT study, 12 to 16 hours after the last application of the test formulations. The results are presented in Figure 7. As in all other parameters, the formulation containing FBComplex clearly outperformed its corresponding placebo on this parameter too. The formulation containing FBComplex showed a 44% improvement as compared to the placebo formulation. The benchmark moisturising active ingredient was included in this study as well. As with the above-described MAT, here too it was clearly shown that FBComplex has a more pronounced effect than the benchmark. With FBComplex the visual aspects of


dry skin were reduced 36% more effectively than with the corresponding formulation containing 3% of the benchmark ingredient. These results


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL


60 50 40 30 20 10 0


0 4 8 12 16 20 24hours


Figure 10: How far do you judge the formulation to make your skin feel smoother?


clearly illustrate FBComplex’s superiority compared to corresponding placebo and formulation containing the benchmark active ingredient.


Skin roughness As mentioned above, one of the main expectations the consumer has from skin moisturisers is that they should make skin soft and smooth immediately. The immediate skin smoothing properties of FBComplex were determined on normal skin after a single application on 20 volunteers. Skin smoothness was assessed after 1 and 2 hours after applying test formulations by making use of a Primos®


high res (GFMeßtechnik GmbH, Teltow, Germany). The results are presented in Figure 8. Untreated control is set at 0%.


Consumer study As a last piece of the puzzle providing proof of FBComplex being a strong moisturiser, relevant to consumer perception of skin moisturisation, a consumer study was performed. 20 volunteers with dry skin applied the test formulations once, after which they assessed different skin parameters, relevant for skin moisturisation, by filling out a questionnaire. The parameters were assessed 30 minutes, 1, 4 and 24 hours after the application of the test formulations. Results are shown in Figures 10, 11 and 12. The results from this consumer study were clearly in line with the results obtained with the instrumental assessments of the moisturising properties of FBComplex. For a period of at least 24 hours after one single application, skin felt more moisturised, felt smoother and looked better than the skin which was treated with placebo.


Conclusions Lack of vitamin D is a common problem and has significant impact on the quality of skin, for instance its hydration level.


n Placebo n 3% FBC Complex


70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


0 4 8 12 16 20 24hours


Figure 11: How far do you judge the formulation to improve the look of your skin?


FBComplex is able to induce the production and the activation of the VDR. Mimicking the in vivo situation, where FBComplex was combined with a vitamin D analogue showed that FBComplex could potentiate the effect of vitamin D as well. The various study methods used in


5.7


finding proof for FBComplex’s moisturising potency complement each other and, without exception, showed clear and strong moisturising effects from FBComplex. The direct moisturising properties of FBComplex are remarkable and proven with separate approaches – normal skin versus dry skin and corneometer vs. MoistureMap vs. moisture accumulation test. After one single application, both quantification of skin smoothness and consumer perception of skin smoothness showed that FBComplex works on this relevant parameter of skin moisturisation. 24 hour-effects were proven on the perception the moisturised feel of skin and the improved look of skin. 12 to 16 hours after the last application,


after a 21-day skin care regime, it was clearly shown that FBComplex has potent moisturising properties. This was proven both with the moisture accumulation test and with squametry. FBComplex’s properties were not only proven against placebo, they were also clearly underlined in the direct comparison with a benchmark moisturising ingredient. The results obtained with MAT and squametry, particularly those obtained with FBComplex and the benchmark ingredient, illustrate the complexity of proving moisturising properties in vivo. On visual appearance of dryness, the difference between the two is 36% after 21 days. FBComplex has been tested with different complimentary and relevant technologies. It was shown that FBComplex moisturises immediately and exceptionally strongly and has proven long-term moisturising effects.


PC August 2020 n Placebo n 3% FBC Complex


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