ANTI-AGEING 45
Strengthen natural skin defences to fight skin ageing
n Laurent Brasseur, Lauranne Spiers, Eric Jourdan - Sensient, France
According to legend, cocoa was given to Pre-Columbian Indigenous people by the gods (hence the name, Theobroma “Food of Gods”). This legendary origin reflects how important cocoa was to Mesoamericans who incorporated it into food, ceremonies, and medicine. After its discovery by Hispanic settlers, cocoa consumption spread to other countries until it became one of the most sought-after delicacies in the world. Today, scientists have rediscovered its medicinal value, reminding us of its ancient uses. These benefits are demonstrated in a number of studies that point to cocoa as an anti- ageing ingredient, as shown by enhanced skin firmness and smoothed fine lines.1–4 Natpure Xtra Eternity fully exploits the
anti-ageing properties of cocoa with the help of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies’ patented, clean extraction process: PhytocleanTM
. Natpure Xtra Eternity lowers
the expression of specific enzymes, thereby preserving the integrity of the extracellular matrix to support skin firmness and enhance smoothness. Additionally, Natpure Xtra Eternity (now referred to as ‘the cocoa
Abstract
Natpure Xtra Eternity, an active derived from ethically sourced cocoa bean, is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient that acts through two distinct biological pathways to enhance skin smoothness, firmness, and hydration. Its efficacy has been evaluated in both in vitro and in vivo studies, with results presented here.
bean anti-ageing active’) stimulates the formation of the epidermis to prevent water loss and to reduce skin vulnerability against external aggressors (see Figure 1).
Extraction process The extraction process for our the cocoa bean anti-ageing active begins with the selection of the highest quality, most ethically sourced biomass. Therefore, the cocoa beans of the cocoa bean anti-ageing active have been cultivated in a Fair-for-Life farm in central Uganda. Here, the alkaline soil and unique microclimate produce a cocoa bean with a phytochemical composition unlike any other in the world. To exploit this unique biomass, phytocompounds are extracted from the cocoa bean using the patented Phytoclean
process. This innovative and clean method does not extract with harsh organic solvents, but rather with sub-critical water. In this state, pressure and temperature are optimised to ensure an ideal surface tension, polarity, and viscosity for the broadest range of photochemical extraction. Compared to traditional extraction methods, Phytoclean not only produces compounds with a greater range of polarity, but also reduces the environmental impact of production, as Phytoclean requires less energy consumption, processing time, and uses no harsh chemical solvents.
Smooth and firm skin The cocoa bean anti-ageing active preserves the dermal extracellular matrix
Figure 1: Skin representation illustrating the two biological active pathways of Natpure Xtra Eternity to fight against skin ageing. August 2020 PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84
