76 HAIR CARE


*p<0.05 to vehicle +p<0.05 from baseline (untreated)


30% n Vehicle conditioner+1% HJE n Vehicle conditioner + * + * 80% 70% 60% 20% 50% 40% 30% 10% 20% 10% 0% No Heat With Heat


Figure 2: Evaluation of percent change in hair shine post test article application on textured hair.


combing (for textured hair only), and another 30 second rinse to remove the test article (n=8 tresses per test article). Percent reduction in wet comb force was


determined for each test article (Fig 1). On bleached non-textured hair the inclusion of HJE decreased comb force by 43% (p<0.01), which was similar to quaternium compounds quaternium-80 (Q80) and cetrimonium chloride (CC) (38%, p<0.001, and 42%, p<0.01, respectively). However, HJE was more effective (p<0.05) than hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolysed wheat protein (WP) (24%, p>0.10). HJE and CC also produced larger reductions in comb force (p<0.05) than the vehicle. On textured hair, the inclusion of HJE


decreased comb force by 38% (p<0.001), which was also more effective (p<0.001) than the vehicle (Fig 1).


HJE increased hair shine Shine evaluations were performed on textured hair tresses before and after test article treatment using a Glossymeter GL 200 (Courage + Khazaka). Treatment consisted of a 30 second rinse, one application of one milliliter of test article per 1.5g of hair, a 30 second massage into hair, 30 seconds of combing, another 30 second rinse to remove the test article, two minutes of blow drying, and ten passes with a flat iron at 232°C (n=3 tresses per test article). Shine measurements were captured with and without heat (i.e. via flat iron), and before and after test article treatment. Percent change in hair shine was


determined for each test article (Fig 2). On textured hair, the inclusion of HJE increased hair shine by 28% (p<0.001) without heat


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL


Figure 3: Evaluation of percent change in total tress area (indicative of frizz) post test article application on textured hair.


and by 28% (p<0.01) with heat, and was also more effective (p<0.05) than the vehicle both with and without heat (13% and 6% increases in shine, respectively).


Style protection (frizz reduction and curl retention) Frizz evaluations were performed on textured hair tresses post test article treatment. Treatment consisted of a 30 second rinse, one application of one milliliter of test article per 1.5g of hair, a 30 second massage into hair, 30 seconds of combing, another 30 second rinse to remove the test article, two minutes of blow drying, and straightening with a flat iron at 204°C (n=3 tresses per test article). Hair was flat ironed to remove the natural tightly coiled curl pattern. Tresses were then exposed to eight hours of high humidity (>70%), created using a glycerol- water system.3


The total area of the hair


was determined at zero and eight hours using image analysis techniques on captured images4


as described by T.


Evans.5 Percent change in frizz (i.e. area of hair)


was determined for each test article (Fig 3). On textured hair, the inclusion of HJE reduced hair frizz by 59% (p<0.05) relative to the vehicle. The loss of curl was measured in centimeters using the original curl length versus the curl length after eight hours. Curl retention evaluations were


performed on naturally straight, brown European type hair tresses (now referred to as straight hair). Treatment consisted of a 30 second rinse, one application of one milliliter of test article per 1.5g of hair, a 30


second massage into hair, another 30 second rinse to remove the test article, wrapping around curlers, and air drying overnight (n=3 tresses per test article). Tresses were then removed from curlers and exposed to eight hours of high humidity (65-99%) and elevated temperature (27-36°C) using a glycerol- water system. Loss in curl length was determined for


each test article (Fig 4). On non-textured straight hair, the inclusion of HJE reduced curl loss by 15% (p<0.10) relative to the vehicle.


HJE provided heat protection / reduced breakage Heat protection was evaluated using breakage on double-bleached, non- textured hair tresses. Dry hair tresses were flat ironed using 90 passes at 232°C prior to test article treatment. Treatment consisted of a 30 second rinse, one application of one-half milliliter of test article, a 30 second massage into hair, another 30 second rinse to remove the test article, two minutes of blow drying, and ten additional passes with a flat iron (n=9 tresses per test article). Tresses were then exposed to four hours of high humidity (>75%), allowed to comb back to ambient room temperature conditions, and then combed using 1000 controlled comb strokes. Broken hair fibres were collected and visually counted. The number of broken hair fibres were


determined for each test article (Fig 5). On bleached non-textured hair, the inclusion of HJE reduced breakage caused by heat by 38% (p<0.05) relative to the vehicle.


August 2020 0% n Vehicle conditioner+1% HJE n Vehicle conditioner


Percent ChangeIn Hair Shine (relative to untreated hair)


Percent Change In Total Tress Area increased frizz


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84