HAIR CARE 75
Effects of hydrolysed jojoba esters on textured hair
n Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US
The objective of the current research was to evaluate the hair conditioning benefits provided by Floraesters K-100®
Jojoba
[INCI: Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Water (Aqua)], within a rinse-out hair conditioner, on textured and non-textured hair. This was done ex vivo on hair tresses by evaluating wet comb force, hair breakage, hair shine, style protection (i.e. frizz reduction and curl retention), and heat protection. The data demonstrated positive benefits provided by Floraesters K- 100 Jojoba to textured hair as well as non- textured hair, including reductions in comb force and hair frizz, and increases in hair shine. The jojoba-derived ingredient was consistently more effective on textured hair than non-textured hair, most likely due to the substantivity it provided the vehicle rinse-out conditioner. Additionally, it was also able to provide style longevity and heat protection. Floraesters K-100 Jojoba [which will be
referred to as hydrolysed jojoba esters (HJE) throughout the paper] is a natural conditioning agent ideal for use in hair conditioner formulas due to its substantive nature and deposition after rinse-off. Previous literature1
Table 1: Vehicle Rinse-Out Conditioner Formula. Conditioner Ingredients
Water
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Cetyl Alcohol Triglyceride Oil Propanediol
Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT Ethyl Macadamiate
Phenoxyethanol (and) Capryl Glycol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Hexylene Glycol
Fragrance
Tocopheryl Acetate Niacinamide
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Disodium EDTA
Pyridoxine Hydrochloride Citric Acid
has explored its use as a
hair conditioning agent (e.g. reduced wet comb force and provided colour protection) on European hair types; however, no work has been done on textured hair types and very little work has been done on its ability to provide style and heat protection in rinse-off hair care formulations. Textured hair, and particularly African textured hair types, has seen far less research than European hair types; and with gaining popularity of women in the black community going natural,2
there is an
unmet need for ingredients and research to support this hair type. This current research will explore the diversity of HJE within a rinse-off hair conditioner application.
Hair conditioning benefits All studies were blinded, randomised, and conducted under controlled environmental conditions. All tresses were purchased from DeMeo Brothers Inc. and were washed with
August 2020
a 10% sodium lauryl sulfate solution prior to use in the study to remove excess oils from the hair. The composition of the vehicle conditioner test article can be found within Table 1. The vehicle conditioner was tested with and without HJE [hydrolysed jojoba esters, 80%, (and) jojoba esters, 10%, (and) water, 10%, (aqua)].
HJE decreased wet comb force Wet comb force was performed on naturally curly, dark brown, double-bleached European type hair tresses (now referred to as non-textured hair), and on naturally tightly coiled, dark brown African type hair tresses (now referred to as textured hair). Peak wet comb force (gram-force) was measured before and after test article treatment using the Test Resources Q Series (100Q) Universal Testing Machine (Test Resources, Inc.). Treatment consisted of a 30 second rinse, one application of one milliliter of test article per 1.5g of hair, a 30 second massage into hair, 30 seconds of
%wt/wt. q.s
4.0 - 6.0 2.0 – 3.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
<1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0 <1.0
50%
* * + +
40% + 30%
+ *
20%
n Vehicle conditioner+1% HJE n Vehicle conditioner+1% CC n Vehicle conditioner+1% Q80 n Vehicle conditioner+1% WP n Vehicle conditioner
+ *
10% 0% Non-Textured Textured
Figure 1: Evaluation of percent reduction in peak wet comb force post test article application on textured and non-textured hair.
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
*p<0.05 to vehicle +p<0.01 from baseline (untreated)
Percent Reduction in Peak Wet Comb Force
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