22 SKIN CARE n
E.coli n
P.aer n
S.aur n
C.alb n
A.bra
1.E+06
1.E+06
1.E+06
1.E+03
1.E+03
1.E+03
1.E+00
1.E+00
1.E+00
0.6% Figure 12: Preservation effect above 0.6%.
cyclohexylglycerin have lower adsorption into fabrics, higher water solubility and lower irritation. They are an outstanding choice for wipes and face masks cosmetics. In fact, they are already adopted and widely used for face masks in Japan and Korea.
Hexylglycerin: 100% natural A new generation of hexylglycerin has been developed, which is 100% natural origin. It has the same performances as the synthetic hexylglycerin describe above.
Preservation performance of hexylglycerin natural The graphs above show the preservation effect above 0.6% in the lotion formulation. Mueller-Hinton Broth is used as dilution
solvent for the sample solution tests. The sample solutions are prepared in a series of doubling dilution on microplates. Test microorganisms are inoculated into the sample solution. After cultivation, the minimum concentration inhibited microorganism growth is judged as MIC when the sample solution turns cloudy (Table 1).
Conclusion Since the European Commission banned the use of certain parabens in 2014, the cosmetic industry is continuously looking for new compounds that can perform the preservative function effectively and safely. In fact, some cosmetic ingredients can play more than one role in cosmetic formulations, leading to cosmetic products that are free of preservatives or self-preservative. With the new generation of 100% natural boosters we are opening a new opportunity for the formulators in the personal care industry.
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
Table 1: Minimum Inhibitory Concentration (MIC%) E. coli
Hexyglycerin Natural Benzyl Alcohol
Caprylhydroxamic Acid Phenylpropanol Pentylene Glycol Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
0.38 0.25 0.05 0.38 3.00
10.00 12.00
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth- 20-Ether The innovative memory gel, a highly efficient thickener for personal care applications, magically flows seamlessly back to its original form, leaving consumers both puzzled and amazed. It is designed in particularly difficult-to-thicken aqueous solutions. The non-ionic urethane polymer forms a water gel and can maintain the viscosity of the product even in the presence of organic and inorganic salt to enable thickening and thixotropic effects to a variety of different types of formulations. With PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis-
Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether it is possible to create highly elastic clear non-stick gels, so called ‘memory gels’. In contrast, gels formulated with 1% traditional carbomers are rather sticky and do not easily flow back to their original form. Using xanthan gum at 2%, it is possible to produce a gel that flows back to its original form, the final gel is however rather sticky and milky instead of non-sticky and clear. The described effects are shown in the comparing pictures (Fig 13).
P. aer. 1.00
0.19 0.13 0.5
2.00 5.00 8.00
0.8%
1.0%
S. aur. 0.75
0.38 0.19 0.5
4.00
15.00 16.00
C. alb. 0.38
0.39 0.01 0.38 4.00 5.00
12.00 The memory gel PEG- 240/HDI
Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether, manufactured by ADEKA, has a unique structure, it is built with two hydrophobic parts, bonded by urethane groups to a hydrophilic PEG backbone. The structure enables the polymer to form a gel with water, as soon as the polymer concentration reaches the point where micelles are starting to form.
Unique structure While the hydrophobic ends of the polymer form micelles in the aqueous system, the hydrophilic centre of the molecule creates a network by connecting the hydrophobic ends and combing the water gelling micelles to create a stable framework. Thanks to this unique structure, the formed gel stays solid, while breaking easily, depending on the level of the memory gel PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether, enabled to flow and reform quickly. The memory gel with its unique properties allows formulators to develop and add interesting and novel
August 2020
A. bra. 0.19
0.19 0.19 0.19 3.00
>20.00 12.00
Initial
1week 2weeks 4weeks
Initial
1week 2weeks 4weeks
Initial
1week 2weeks 4weeks
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