50 SKIN CARE
personal care trends originate. They can be simply described as water-based formulations which are combined with a substrate to enable them to be easily portable. These formulations allow for addition of “essences” or actives to be combined at the point of application for a more personalised or interactive experience. The greatest issue with these masks, as perceived by the consumer, is that the majority are not sustainable as they are not often biodegradable (cfr. Mintel’s 2019 Beauty Product Consumers (BPC) report). This Mintel report also stated that, moving forward, more focus on waste management is needed as reducing packaging is not enough. There is far greater potential for “out-of-the-box” thinking from manufacturers and brands in all areas of the life cycle of a beauty product: from raw material selection, to manufacturing to the “after life” of the product. More now than at any time in the past, consumers are increasingly socially and environmentally savvy and conscious, with high expectations. Whether it is the food they consume or the cosmetics they use, they are looking to reduce and refine their use of declining resources, use sustainable traceable natural ingredients and make a stand for the social issues that are important to them. In its report “Beauty with a brain” (2019), Mintel examines the needs for brands to prove their credibility, with 71% of Spanish beauty product purchasers trusting natural products and ingredients created by scientists. According to another Mintel study, 67% of beauty product buyers in France, Germany, Italy and Spain agree that brands should have sustainable programs aimed at reducing their use of natural resources (Mintel, “A year of innovation in facial skincare” 2019).
Formution 3: Exfoliating PHA Face Mask Phase INCI A Water
Gluconolactone
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin Bentonite Kaolin
Glycerin Xanthan Gum B c Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
Glycerin, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
Glycerin, Water, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract Tocopherol Fragrance
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Water, Sodium Hydroxide
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
Formution 1: Maskerade Phase INCI A
Aqua Pectin
Xanthan Gum
Phenoxyethanol, Glycerine, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract, Citrus Sinensis Peel Extract, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid, Lactic acid, Aqua
B C 1,3-Butylene Glycol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phytic Acid, Fucus Spiralis Extract, Tetraselmis Chui Extract
Distarch Phosphate Menthol, Menthyl Lactate Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Tin Oxide
Formution 2: Golden Touch Eye Mask Phase INCI A Water B
Glycerin
Chondrus Crispus Extract/ Potassium Chloride Locust Bean Gum Cellulose Gum Xanthan Gum
C Chlorophene Ether D Mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, tin dioxide As the impact of global warming is
changing the planet and an increasing world population pushes pollution to new highs, protection is a key buzz word for the future. With new technologies and clever formulations, it is possible to move with the times and future-proof your formulations. The Azelis EMEA Personal Care team developed Maskerade, an award-winning alternative to sheet masks. It is a
%w/w 55.10 10.00 1.00 5.00 7.00 8.00 0.30 5.0
3.00 1.0
3.0
0.30 0.30 1.0 QS
%w/w 75.10 2.00 0.10
0.70 10.00 10.00
1.00 1.00 0.10
%w/w To 100 15.00 0.80 0.60 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
customisable, biodegradable mask made from a sustainable cold process pectin, which is allowed to dry and can then be cut to the required shape. It can be adapted with a wide range of actives to allow targeting of specific skin imperfections by the easy inclusion of water-based actives. Pectin is at the heart of this formulation as it is incorporated specifically for its buffering effect in the pH range 3-5, which is the optimum pH for healthy skin. In vivo and in vitro studies show short-term buffer effect with long-term alkali scavenging properties. It is also known for protecting the skin barrier and improving the moisturisation level of skin as it reduces TEWL by 20% due to the high molecular weight of acidic polymer. The advantage of formulations based on
natural gums is that when placed in warm water after use, they will dissolve leaving little or no residue, making them a solution to address the growing need for more sustainable options.
Jelly masks The next type of masks which are gaining in popularity as well as acceptance by the consumer are the so-called ‘jelly masks’. They are based on natural gellants, with a huge range of possibilities available to the formulator, going from carrageenan, locust bean gum, through to gellan gum. These also address the desire of the mask area to
August 2020
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