6 ANALYSIS
Entering the age of Zoom To potentially offset the issues of foundation and lipstick transfer to masks, we have found ourselves on endless Zoom/Skype/Teams meetings. Although not all people regard these as formal occasions, many do, and they will have found that webcams are not the most flattering devices. They have a tendency to ‘wash out’ the skin, meaning that an individual will need to apply more product than normal in order for the camera to ‘read’ it.4
This is unlikely to result in a rush on stage
makeup, but perhaps consumers will notice going through their products a little quicker.
The end of ‘try before you buy’? The retail aspect of cosmetics and personal care is not something we touch upon very frequently in this magazine, but the end of in- store testers is potentially such an enormous shift in the relationship between the manufacturer and consumer, it is important that we acknowledge it. There is a clear problem with the concept
of in-store testers at a time when large areas of the planet are actively fighting a viral pandemic, but what is still not clear is whether the concept will disappear long- term. We should perhaps assume it will, in its old format at least. The CTPA has recently released guidance
on safe methods of continuing to offer testers,3
but this will involve decanting small
amounts of product onto a sterilised tile and the use of disposable sponges/applicators. It is good that there are ways to continue to offer testers, but it is inevitable that it will be a less user-friendly experience.
Protection claims In recent years there has been a strong upswing in personal care products offering skin protection claims. This has included anti-pollution, anti-blue light and skin microbiome protection. Will anti-viral claims and anti-bacterial now be added to that list? If so, natural oil suppliers will be ready with a range of products to help. Dora Bert, supplier development manager at oil supplier Kerfoot,
commented: “We’re in a whole new era of formulation thinking. In response to consumer enlightenment around the environment, many brands are talking to us about integrating natural, organic and sustainable oils into their formulations. But with the latest focus on Coronavirus and the importance of keeping hygiene front and foremost in consumer thinking, many of our customers are now exploring how they can integrate natural antibacterial functionality as well.” In addition to protection from
pathogens, consumers will also want their skin protected from the harsh new cleansing regimes because of the pandemic. European ingredient manufacturer, CLR Berlin conducted a roundtable discussion about the impact of the pandemic: “Strong use of sanitisers leads to increased demand of products like hand creams due to strong damage of skin barrier and skin microbiota, so actives which bring a protective functionality with them will be important,” said John Lofthouse, director global sales & marketing at CLR Berlin, as part of this roundtable discussion.
Looking at the long term While most people are understandably
focusing on the immediate and short-term impact of the pandemic, it is also important to start to imagine how much the landscape will have been altered further into the future. One of the biggest changes might be
psychological. The modern world had perhaps become complacent about the precarious position of human life on Earth. Despite compelling evidence to show that climate change is happening, there has appeared to be an underlying reluctance to accept that anything truly bad could happen to large numbers of people. The pandemic has shown that despite the best efforts of global health agencies and the most powerful countries on Earth, catastrophes of this nature can and will happen. The upside of this is that it may remove
some of that complacency, not only for potential future pandemics, but for other looming crises such as climate change. While the focus has been moved away from that issue temporarily, when it returns to the top of news feeds, its potential impact will seem far less of an abstract concept. The personal care industry has had
sustainability at the top of its agenda for many years now, and this will only continue to grow in importance as economies start to emerge from the aftermath of COVID-19. Personal care formulations have also
started to take a holistic approach to wellbeing in recent years, and this will also be an important strategy for people going forward. The pandemic has made people very aware of how interconnected the subjects of personal care and general health really are.
References 1
https://www.nytimes.com/article/maskne-
acne.html
2
https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/202004 /16/
WS5e979a52a3105d50a3d1683a.html
3
https://www.ctpa.org.uk/covid19information 4
https://nymag.com/strategist/article/how-to-
do-makeup-for-video-calls-zoom.html
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL July 2020
PC
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