SKIN CARE 23
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether
Carbomer 1%/ Tea 0.6%
Xanthan gum 2%
Figure 13: Different textures.
characteristics to the final rheology between 1 to 3.3% (Fig 13).
Compatibility with salt Another unique point of the memory gel PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether is that it has a high salt tolerance. The gel viscosities of over 100,000mPa can be created with additions of between 1-5 % solid and neither the quick break nor the flow is adversely affected. This feature promotes the creation of formulations, containing significantly higher levels of active ingredients that would not be possible by using carbomer gel systems (Fig 14). With PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis-
Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether, it is also able to gel oils, creating an emulsion gel
without any need to add surfactants. It is possible to create a gel that contains 30% of oil by using an aqueous gel created with just 1.5 % solid material. As the polymer is also tolerant of both high and low pH ranges, it makes it ideal for use in many milky lotion skin care, makeup and hair styling applications. The memory gel also fits perfectly for decorative cosmetics. For a higher oil contents we advise the
second generation of the memory gel polyurethane-59. Formulators can develop a lotion with 70% oil at 1% of the polymer. Yet another unique effect with the
memory gel PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis- Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether is, as well as with the polyurethane-59, that it can be sprayed. Both gels have thixotropic proprieties.
n Blank n NaCi 1% n NaCi 5% n Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside 2% (neutralized with NaOH)
1,000,000 100,000 10,000 1,000 100 10 1
PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-
Decyltetradeceth- 20-Ether 5%
Figure 14: Compatibility with salt. August 2020 Figure 15: Viscosity tolerance. PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL CarBomer 0.2% (neutralized with TEA)
Xanthan Gum 4.7%
1,000,000 100,000 10,000 1,000 100 10 1
0.01 0.1 1 10 Shear rate (S-1) 100 1000 10000
Moisturising booster An additional benefit enabled with PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20- Ether is the boosting of the moisturising effect in combination with polyol Butylene Glycol. The testing result of skin conductance (SKICON-200) shows that a high moisturising effect can be reached with a blend of 3.3% of PEG- 240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20-Ether and 5% butylene Glycol in 30 min and 120 min.
Conclusion ADEKA as an innovative cosmetics company and its dedicated work has convinced the members of the jury of in-cosmetics Global Paris in 2019 and won the Silver Sensory Award. Today the memory gel is used in over 650 products in the cosmetics market all over the world.
PC
n 6.7%a.q. (solid conc. 2%) n 5%a.q. (solid conc. 1.5%) n 3.3%a.q. (solid conc. 1%)
Viscosity (mPa-s)
Viscosity (mPa-s)
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