SKIN CARE 17
The rise of J-Beauty: from Japan to the world
n Hayate Zarth – ADEKA Europe GmbH, Germany
With the rise of J-Beauty, Japanese cosmetics once again stands in the centre of attention. Naturality, high quality, technological effectiveness, transformative textures and sensorial properties, all capture the essence of the J-Beauty renaissance. Japanese consumers enjoy novelty and continuously seek out new products for more benefits and better results. A new trend of naturality is noticeable through consumers’ demands all over the world and ADEKA is quickly adapting to meet customers’ demands by constantly providing new and innovative products. Recently, there has been a new switch to
the use of fermented ingredients in personal care. ADEKA’s new Cosmos approved line of prebiotic bio-fermented fruit extracts is an innovative answer to consumers’ requests. Additionally, with the launch of the preservative boosters cyclohexylglycerin & hexylglycerin, ADEKA is focusing on high quality and performance of natural preservative boosters with low skin irritation and high water solubility. Here as well, ADEKA is responding to the increased demand for natural products. The concept of providing inspiring textures and sensory experiences lies at the heart of Japanese skin care culture. Traditional textures have been replaced with innovative transforming textures, delivering a “wow factor” to the consumers. Thanks to its innovative memory gel, ADEKA was able to capture the consumer’s attention. The memory gel won the Silver Sensory Award at in-cosmetics Global in Paris 2019, for its creative and unique texture.
Prebiotic bio-fermented fruit extracts In recent years, the use of fermented functional ingredients in cosmetic applications is experiencing a new popularity, as they provide exceptional skin care properties to cosmetic products. Fermentation can be described as any metabolic process in which microorganisms’ activity creates a desirable change in food and beverages, whether it is increasing
August 2020 Before LAB
Fermentation (2% Kiwi-Extract only)
+22%
1nM 2% Kiwi-Extract after LAB Fermentation
0 10 20 30 40 Anti-radical activity (%) Figure 1: Anti-radical activity.
flavour, preserving foodstuffs, providing health benefits or more. Natural transformation of fruits by fermentation, particularly using probiotic lactic acid bacteria (LAB), changes both profile and type of bioactive compounds in a natural and sustainable way. Prebiotic bio-fermented fruit extracts’
functional properties are improved by LAB fermentation through several mechanisms: elimination of antinutritional factors, production of skin-effective metabolites (Alpha Hydroxy Acids, AHA), improvement of absorption of bioactive compounds, increased available micronutrients (vitamins, minerals and phenolic compounds) and moreover an increase in the antioxidant capacity of the ingredient. Additionally, interactions between topical applied fermented ingredients and skin microflora represent a straight forward approach that may balance the skin microbiome, leading to an overall wellbeing and a healthy skin. In terms of cosmetic products,
fermentation has three benefits: First, fermentation helps the skin to
better absorb the product. As the molecular size of actives found in natural ingredients is too large, the skin normally has difficulties absorbing them. Through fermentation however, microorganisms break down the molecules into smaller sizes, making it
easier for the skin to absorb the benefitting ingredients. Second, fermentation can reduce the likelihood of skin irritation. Some natural raw ingredients contain toxic substances like heavy metals and pesticides that irritate the skin. The fermentation process neutralises these substances, making the product safer, more effective, and suitable for sensitive skin types. On top of that, fermentation using yeast can lead to the creation of special substances that prevent the generation of harmful microorganisms, further reducing the chances of skin damage. Third, fermentation creates new skin-benefitting substances. The fermentation process gives rise to new amino acids, organic acids and antioxidants, helping to hydrate and nourish the skin. Through this, natural ingredients often used in cosmetics - such as milk, vegetables, and herbs - can see an increase in nutrients. The three main benefits work synergistically with one another to improve the overall health of the skin. The three main benefits of fermentation
are not the only benefits. Especially LAB- fermentation is often said to produce or improve functions of various cosmetic ingredients. Ingredients including LAB- fermentation support a good and healthy skin condition through safe (non-GMO)
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL 50 60 70
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