HAIR CARE 41


300 250 200 150 100 50 0


Shampoo Only Conditioner Base BTAC CETAC


Palm-based Esterquat


Sunflower Oil-based Esterquat


Figure 2:Wet combability. Dia-Stron testing on Caucasian, slightly-bleached hair tresses. Results are based on the manufacturer’s own study, and the manufacturer makes no warranties as to the accuracy, completeness or adequacy of the information herein.


by taking a source of long-chain fatty acids, reacting them with a small tertiary amine and quaternising with methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethylsulfate. For this development, Stepan decided to take a greener route by using sunflower oil instead of a palm-derived fatty acid. There are several benefits to that: a reduction of the chemical transformation steps, and a more local and sustainable supply chain. Indeed,


the sourcing of oil from sunflower seeds grown in France and Spain ensure the renewability of the feedstock and avoids the deforestation issues linked to standard palm oil. Another added benefit is the much lower melt point due to the high degree of unsaturation of the oil. The resulting cationic agent has a much lower melt point, allowing for a high active, low melt point product without the need for


flammable solvents. The resulting product, a sunflower


esterquat (SF-EQ, INCI name Dioleylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides), does not contain any water, nor solvent or preservative, and is comprised of 100% total cationic and emollient actives. This fits the rising need for concentrated ingredients that enable transportation and


August 2020


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL


Maximum Load (gmf)


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