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NEWS 11


Balancing sustainability and ‘skincarisation’


Natural hair colour range


Lubrizol Life Science Beauty has announced the launch of its first sustainable hair colour solution. Naturange, a range of hybrid permanent hair colour formulations, is made with up to 88% natural-derived ingredients for gentle, lasting colour. Consumers are increasingly


mindful of hair and scalp damage caused by hair colouring products. They examine ingredient labels in search of safer, more natural contents. Naturange offers the ideal solution with its combination of botanical extracts and naturally derived ingredients using Lubrizol sustainable proprietary technologies that provide vivid colour and grey coverage, while preventing damage to hair. Lasting up to 20 washes,


Naturange formulations are free of ammonia, parabens, PPD and not


formulated with resorcinol. All have a non-drip, creamy texture that is quickly absorbed into the hair for maximum moisturising and conditioning benefit. No residue is left behind, and hair is easily detangled while it is still wet. “Now with Naturange,


consumers have a hybrid permanent hair colour plus treatment formula that creates long-lasting colour, even on greys,” said Juliana Gomiero, global hair care marketing manager, LLS Beauty. “It also soothes hair and makes it smooth and soft.” Naturange falls at 88% on the


Renewable Carbon Index and comes in four ready-made shades: Green Tea Black 2.0 Shade, Hawaiian White Ginger Brown 4.0 Shade, Hibiscus Flower Red 6.6 Shade, Chamomile Blonde 10.0 Shade.


Skincarisation is taking over all beauty markets and especially hair care, creating new product space from sleeping masks, scalp scrubs and lots of different leave-on textures (sprays, balms, cream-gel, jelly, …) to obtain the healthy hair look. Directly from skin care, claims like anti-pollution and even blockbuster ingredients like hyaluronic acid can now be found in shampoos or conditioners. This product-offer multiplication is increasing the environmental impact of the hair care industry and brands are starting to take action. Geltrap from Seppic is the


first step towards more planet- friendly alternative to classic hot process conditioners showing the same conditioning performance on hair tresses. This surprising gel-in-oil texture saves energy thanks to its cold process: -98% energy versus hot process O/W emulsion and -74% compared to a cold process O/W emulsion. This energy saving also helps to diminish CO2


emission from the


manufacturing process (-4.6kg of CO2


for a 5kg batch), the


greenhouse gas responsible for ozone degradation. Geltrap is a real resource saver as it also reduces manufacturing time by 78% versus hot process O/W. This trendy hair conditioner Geltrap is created by the combination of Easynov and Simulquat HC 305. The skin care inspired texture creates the


“wow” effect to surprise consumers. Easy-to-spread on hair, the patented conditioner has a silicone-like feel which gives a great slip and cushion all along the strand. Without using silicones for conditioning, the product carbon footprint is reduced: the sand extraction and the process to obtain these ingredients have a very negative impact on the environment (destruction of ecosystems and energivore polluting manufacturing). The patented Geltrap


technology also gives the possibility to reduce the amount of oily phase as only 10% is necessary to obtain the same results as hot process O/W formulas containing up to 15% of oil phase. Simulquat HC 305, the liquid cationic texturiser, is already pre-neutralised and makes product development easier from brief to shelves: it creates diverse textures with different cold process shear (also avoid the denaturation of heat sensitive ingredient); it helps to stabilise and gives a glossy appearance to any hair conditioning formula and boosts manufacture performance by saving energy and time. Simulquat HC 305 has also shown the same conditioning results as Polyquaternium-10 in an aqueous gel application but with a lower active content (0.5% a.m. for Polyquaternium-10 versus 0.41% a.m. for Simulquat HC 305).


Award for anti-pollution ingredient


Lipoid Kosmetik won the Personal Care and Homecare Ingredients (PCHi) Fountain Award 2020 in the category ‘Anti- Pollution’ with their active ingredient Carotolino. 122 products from 79 companies from all over the world were


August 2020


submitted to the international expert panel of the PCHi fair in Shanghai. PCHi honoured winners of


the Fountain Award already now in an online Award Ceremony. “We are very proud to receive this prestigious


award as a sign of our continuous effort to provide sophisticated, high-quality cosmetic ingredients that follow consumer trends and combine attractive marketing concepts with superior scientific data,” said Dr Peter Röthlisberger, managing


director of Lipoid Kosmetik. Carotolino has already


been among the finalists of the in-cosmetics Global Innovation Award 2019 and won the 3rd prize of the BSB Innovation Award 2019 in the category ‘Most Innovative Raw Material’.


PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL


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