ANTI-AGEING 63
Tripeptide complex for a range of anti-ageing targets
n Peter Jung – Equipforskin, South Korea
A topically applicable new tripeptide complex shows promising in vitro results as anti-ageing cosmetic and cosmeceutical ingredients against a variety of ageing factors.
Skin ageing Skin ageing is a complex process caused by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors and progressively losing the structure and function of the skin. Oxidative stress induced by reactive oxygen species (ROS) plays an important role in the process of human skin ageing, especially at the subcutaneous layer. Extrinsic skin ageing is driven mainly by environmental factors and external stresses such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), pollution and lifestyle factors that also stimulate the production of ROS and generate oxidative stress. Skin ageing is also a kind of
inflammation process caused by a variety of
intrinsic and extrinsic factors since various inflammatory cytokines are involved in the middle of the ageing mechanism.
Natural vs. synthetic peptides and polypeptides vs. tripeptides Natural human peptides are known to be involved in immunity, stress, homeostasis and reproduction through cellular communication or signalling like protein regulation, cell proliferation, inflammation and melanogenesis. Likewise, many short, stable and functional synthetic peptides have also been developed by scientists and industry. Dr. JH Hahn, a biomimetic scientist and professor with over 30 years of experience, has confirmed no functional difference between 3-4 amino acid peptides and the 10-50 amino acid polypeptides and developed lots of patented functional tripeptides for
pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical and cosmetic use.
The anti-ageing tripeptide complexes ‘Dr Hahn antiaging tripeptide complex I & II’ (Antiagin R I, II) consist of 2 or 4 of less than 500 Da. topically applicable functional tripeptides, such as AdiponinTM
name: Acetyl Tripeptide-74 Amide), SynepinTM
Acetyl Tripeptide-54 Amide), EnfibinTM (INCI name: Palmitoyl
sh-Tripeptide-3 Amide) and SynderminTM (INCI name: Palmitoyl sh-Tripeptide-1 Amide). Adiponin, as an adipose (fat) derived tripeptide, forms a skin barrier and protects the skin from inflammatory mechanisms by UVB and pollution. Enfibin blocks NFkB, a transcription factor to induce inflammatory ageing. Synpin is an epidermal growth factor tripeptide and Syndermin is a fibroblast growth factor
(INCI name: (INCI
Figure 1: Effect of Adiponin: When applied with AdiponinTM August 2020
, essential molecules for skin barrier formation were increased and fibroblast, collagen, elastin and HA were also proliferated. PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
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