HAIR CARE 33 [1] Tress alteration Product application Combing (20 times) One serum applcation followed by 20 combings Percentage of the Initial Repair, that is retained after 20 Combings 77% Institute®
develops specific interactions with the chemistry of split surfaces (i.e. damaged hair surfaces) and capillarity brings the split parts back together. Upon hair drying, the guar-based ingredient remains on the fibres, and forms a thin film that bridges across the parts of a split, locking it into a closed state (Fig 6). During the 2020 American Cleaning (ACI) annual meeting and
After 20 Combing
[1] Solvay simplified serum: water, 10% ethanol, 1% glycerin, 0.5% panthenol, Na benzoate, 0.5% Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Protocol from spin control 5 tresses, 1500 fibers observed Figure 4: Percentage of initial repair retained after 20 combings.
application as a serum,” said Marie Arzel, Home and Personal Care, Solvay. Damaged hair treated with the latter
shows that it can withstand multiple washings, repeated combings and excessive heat exposure from flat or curling irons. Tests also showed a resistance to
washing after the serum was applied to the damaged hair. After one neutral shampoo application, 100% of the reparation remained, while 97% remained after three neutral shampoos and 82% after 10 neutral shampoos. This performance supports the claim of durability as most of the repair was retained after just one serum application (Fig 3). Tests showed a resistance to combing after one application of serum. After 20
repeated combings to hair treated with just one serum application, tests showed that 77% of the reparation remained (Fig 4). The product’s durability was also proven
by its resistance to damage from flat-iron treatments, supported only through internal testing on hair kits (10 fibres). The 10-hair fibre kit and the last 10 cm were passed through twice at 180°C, and maintained a 93% reparation rate. Formulators can easily create an entire
repair routine with some variations in function of the hair types.
Bridging the splits So how does it work (Fig 5)? Due to its optimised structure (molecular weight and functionalisation), this performing solution
convention in Orlando, Florida, Solvay received a prize for “Best Innovation Contributor Beauty” from one of its largest partners and key hair care player, Henkel, which is planning global launches for different products using this solution. “This technology perfectly illustrates
how our new innovation and evaluation strategy can bear fruit,” added Stephanie Neplaz, Global Marketing Director, Hair Care.
From guar seeds to a hair cure solution This is a bio-based ingredient provided by the guar plant, the Cyamopsis tetragonoloba. This plant is grown in dry, arid environments, mainly in India and primarily in the Rajasthan state. The endosperm, one part of the guar seed, also called the poly galactomannan, contains the guar molecule. With a molecular weight between 3 million to 10 million g/mol, different chemistries can be applied to bring about very different functionalities, such as conditioning, softening, gelling and water retention. Solvay launched a programme in 2015
called the Sustainable Guar Initiative (SGI), a multi-year project designed to teach and
August 2020
PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
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