32 HAIR CARE
an opportunity to express themselves through the way they style and care for their hair. Brands strive to convey the notion that
consumers themselves are given the freedom to select routines and regimens that cater to their own individual wants and desires. In fact, brands such as the global L’Oréal
or the French Pierre Fabre, use their websites to entice consumers into requesting consultations for specific answers just for them, invoking feelings that make them feel understood, well-cared for and unique.
Maintaining luxurious long hair While consumers want hair that is healthy and shiny, breakage and split-ends can often stand in the way of maintaining a long hair style and, unfortunately, products in the current market generally offer more care than cure. Existing technologies to properly cure split ends are limited in repair/sealing efficacy; offering resistance to washing, combing and heat protection; and short on versatility by their use primarily in leave-on formulations. And because many of the products on the market today are formulated using silicones, proteins, oils or synthetic ingredients, they tend to leave hair feeling sticky or with a powdery residue for an unpleasant sensorial experience. For these reasons, the majority of hair
care products for managing split ends are focused on claims of prevention or conditioning, and offer no real quantifying claims around curing damaged hair over the long term. Taking all of these factors into account,
the Research and Innovation (R&I) team at Solvay set out to develop an active using a natural-based ingredient as a cure in creating a product that offers durable split end repair from the first use and
[1] alteration Tress application Product Shampoo No 1 Shampoo No 3 Shampoo No 5 Shampoo No One serum application followed by several neutral shampoo applications
Percentage of the Initial Repair, that is retained after N shampoos 100%
97% 85% 82% 10 Figure 2:Multi split ends.
demonstrates its strength through rinse-off and leave-on formulations for a unique and powerful hair.
Better long hair, naturally While many factors can contribute to split ends, they are typically formed from mechanical treatments, such as brushing, combing or repeated hairstyling. The damage can also be aggravated by frequent shampooing with harsh products, chemical alterations (straightening, perming, colouring, bleaching), and cumulate with exposure to heat, too-fast blow drying and excessive use of flat or curling irons and sun exposure. Split ends are a sign of unhealthy,
damaged hair and are often accompanied by hair breakage, dullness, and premature ageing. In the current market, the most prevalent way for treating split ends is an extreme solution, such as hair trimming (Fig 1). What the Solvay R&I team came up with
was an Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, an efficient and guar-based product that could
not only satisfy a need in the hair care market, but also complement Solvay’s Home and Personal Care portfolio with its first-ever split-end repair solution. Solvay technology has an innovative structure that offers a host of advantages across the board. With its versatility and compatibility, manufacturers can easily use this guar derivative in formulations for shampoos, conditioners and serums. For end users, it offers full reparation from the first use, as well as durable split end repair properties and a pleasant hair feel. And because it is vegetable-based and non-ecotoxic, it is also better for the planet. The guar derivative is the perfect response to the growing clean beauty trend calling for natural-inspired ingredients from renewable resources (Fig 2).
Multi split-ends Performance and durability In demonstrating its inherent properties, this novelty has proven its efficiency. Statistical analysis was done to prove the performance and durability of it, with internal tests on tresses validated by an external laboratory. To begin the testing, split ends were counted one-by-one before and after treatment in order to calculate the percentage of reparation. In terms of performance, 90% to 95% of
split ends were repaired after one serum application, versus 60% to 73% of reparation with commercial benchmarks. The split ends were fully sealed after just three applications using this ingredient. In testing its effectiveness in a shampoo,
After 1 After 3 After 5 After 10
Neutral shampoo Neutral shampoo Neutral shampoo Neutral shampoo [1] Solvay simplified serum: water, 10% ethanol, 1% glycerin, 0.5% panthenol, Na benzoate,
0.5% Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Spincontrol results, 5 tresses, 1500 fibers observed Figure 3: Percentage of initial repair retained after N shampoos. PERSONAL CARE GLOBAL
the results were just as promising: after just one washing, 40% to 60% of the hair was repaired, versus 48% with commercial benchmarks. Solvay’s active ingredient consistently
outperformed all market benchmarks. “You can keep washing your hair with
neutral shampoo, comb it and use a hot iron on it, most of the repair obtained is retained, especially after an initial
August 2020 Before Treatment After Treatment
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