IN-COSMETICS PREVIEW


and plant-based, vegan alternatives in the Herbamilk Eco product line. Also on show is the newest substantiated extract Water Lily Pro, which is described as “the ideal ingredient for perfect volume in urban hair”.


The LUMiSpoc from LUM (B20) is a Kuncai Europe (U80) Antalgenics (R21) Antalgenics (R21) has designed


Capsisilence, a neurocosmetic ingredient that will also be on show at the Innovation Zone. Thanks to its action over the sensory neurons of the skin, this decreases sensory neuron hyperexcitation by reducing the release of proinflammatory mediators by the immune cells, thus preventing the initiation of itching and reducing itchiness. Capsisilence increases the expression of key molecules for the skin barrier, protecting from desquamation and delaying dandruff reappearance, even two weeks after stopping using it, Antalgenics says.


Azeco Cosmeceuticals (E58), the world’s


largest supplier of cosmetic grade azelaic acid, will be present as an exhibitor for the first time. In particular, it offers Azepur99, which can be used in products that fight against skin prone to acne, redness from rosacea, dark spots and hyperpigmentation, hair loss and dull skin impurities. It is a micronised, high-purity product of >99% European origin, as well as being vegan and COSMOS-approved.


Low nano TiO2 pigments, developed


specifically for cosmetics, will take centre stage at Venator’s stand (T20). Using its patented enhanced crystal size-controlled technology, Venator can engineer TiO2


within


specific nanoparticle parameters and fine- tune grades to meet precise formulation needs. Two products are available. Hombitan AFDC101, a super-pure grade with the lowest nano threshold of any anatase pigment, a scientifically confirmed nano particle fraction of <10% by number. It disperses rapidly into formulations, is quick and easy to use, and delivers a flawless finish, the firm says. Hombitan is a new amphiphilic, multi-purpose grade, suitable for customised applications in high-end coloured cosmetics.


Kuncai Europe (U80) has three pigments


on show, all based on synthetic mica (fluorphlogopite) without any added carmine or organic colourants. Aurora 818V Twilight Rose is said to offer “luminous colour with red and violet nuances that are enhanced by an exceptional chroma and extremely high colour saturation”. Aurora 819V Orchid Violet has


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undertones of blooming heather and is claimed to offer an outstandingly lustrous finish, brilliant high chroma and exceptional reflectivity. Finally, Aurora 820V Wisteria Violet is a luminous violet with a deep blue undertone, suiting it to combinations, blends and transitions.


Moving on to services and equipment,


Inovapotek (S121) offers testing services that can, among other things, show how a product reduces cortisol levels, enhances skin repair, balances the skin microbiome, reduces skin inflammation, AGEs and many more. The firm can support customers through the full product development process, with R&D, product development, clinical tests, claim support, consulting and regulatory affairs assistance.


Validated Claim Support (R111) is officially


introducing its clinical testing and claim substantiation services internationally. The company specialises in bridging high resolution clinical before and after imaging with traditional expert grading, instrumental assessments and measurements, plus subjective consumer feedback. It has recently acquired one of the first Canfield Visia Generation 5 fully-3D capable systems in North America.


single-particle, light-scattering photometer that determines the particle size distribution and particle concentration of nano and microparticles in suspensions and emulsions with high resolution and a dynamic range from 40 nm to 10 µm. Up to 10,000 particles can be analysed per second. It offers accelerated stability testing by combining higher gravity and temperature (ramp) for comparative shelf-life. Meanwhile, the multi-wavelength dispersion analyser LUMiSizer combines selected constant temperature (or a ramp) and physical acceleration, permitting rapid shelf-life analysis of formulations in original concentrations.


Forestwise (B62) will showcase regenerative


agroforestry, as practised by the Dayak people in its native Borneo, among others. The company said that it is “taking its first steps along the pathway from sustainable, wild gathering of raw materials such as Illipe and Kukui towards regenerative agroforestry, working with our customers on long-term projects to bring back biodiverse primary rainforest to parts of Borneo”.


Biolie is showing five new ingredients based


on its own enzymatic extraction technology at the French Pavilion. These begin with an aqueous cosmetic active derived from the pulp of the Manketti fruit, developed in partnership with the CRIAA SA-DC R&D centre in Namibia. There are also three organic vegetable waters, Pyr’O, Pep’O and Cumb’O from pear, courgette and cucumber, respectively, to replace water in cosmetic formulations from 20 to 80%. The last is Biolie’s first organic mirabelle plum oil.


Alchemy Ingredients (K50) is launching


Instathix, a concentrated ingredient that is naturally derived from 100% sustainable, vegetable-based materials, to create new oil-in-gel textures in a few simple steps. It facilitates emulsifying, thickening and stabilising in one. “Creams made with Instathix are light yet intensely moisturising,” the company says and data shows that the oil-in-gel structures deliver long-lasting moisturisation. Instathix can also be used to rescue unstable formulations, and it adds richness and viscosity too.


Sonneborn (B80), part of HollyFrontier


VMI (P74) VMI (P74) says that its new pilot vacuum


homogeniser, the Trilab, allows manufacturers to obtain pilot results that can be extrapolated for larger-scale production. Thanks to its mixing tool, the Trilab handles cosmetics emulsions, lotions, shampoos, toothpaste, and sunscreen creams alike with three independent stirring movements. The mixing process can be carried out under thermal treatments without transferring the product into an intermediate thank. It can work under a controlled atmosphere, facilitating the introduction and wetting of powders and improving emulsion fineness.


Lubricants & Specialties, specialises in white oils, petrolatums and waxes, notably the SonneNatural line of plant-based products. “Through progressive technical innovation, Sonneborn transcends performance boundaries to enable customers to create more advanced and innovative products,” the company says. “Our unique refinery setup is designed to do smaller runs and quick changes of production line. It means we are able to offer bespoke solutions like no other manufacturer.”


And finally, of course, Personal Care Global


Magazine will also be at In-Cosmetics Global at stand T169. The whole team will be present to discuss future editorial and marketing opportunities in the magazine and renew contacts. We have missed being there too and look forward to seeing you there.


March 2022 PERSONAL CARE


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