46 NATURALS
CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■
10000 9000 8000 7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0
0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #1
Figure 1: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 1, Formulas 1-11)
to finished emulsion formulas: a bright white opacity in almost all systems tested, regardless of emulsifier type or oil phase loading. In some emulsions, the change in opacity was visible at only 2% loading. Generally, opacity increased with the percentage of cetyl palmitate. Cetyl stearate is classified by most personal
care resources as an emollient. Mintel classifies it as a skin conditioning agent and this accounted for all product launches in Q4 2021.10
Again, our
lab showed that cetyl stearate is also a very effective emulsion opacifier, with similar results as when using cetyl palmitate. Our studies also showed that cetyl stearate
increased emulsion viscosity, in many cases as effectively as cetearyl alcohol, making it a multi-functional ingredient. Furthermore, we studied the effects of cetyl stearate in anhydrous formulations and found it to have moderate gelling properties, thus making it a secondary structurant. When used in conjunction with a typical primary structurant, it increased stick hardness without disrupting the rest of the properties. Stearyl stearate is classified by personal care
resources as an emollient, skin conditioner and viscosity-controlling ingredient.11
Mintel classifies it as a skin conditioning and viscosity-controlling 6 7
CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■
10000 9000 8000 7000 6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0
0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #2
Figure 2: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 2, Formulas 12-22)
TABLE 4 – FORMULATION OF BASE 3 Phase A
Ingredients
Deionised Water Disodium EDTA Optiphen Glycerin
Citric Acid B
Kostol TMC-25 AR Cocoa Butter Cetyl Alcohol Schercodine S Belsil DM 100
Test waxes/control waxes INCI Aqua Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Glycerin
Citric Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter Cetyl Alcohol
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Dimethicone TBD
ingredient, with current uses being in colour cosmetics (65% of launches in Q4 2021), followed by skin care (30%).10 Our studies have shown that stearyl stearate is also an emulsion opacifier with little effect on viscosity, similar to cetyl palmitate. The most notable difference happens in anhydrous formulations: at the right levels, stearyl stearate can be used as the sole system structurant.
Formulating emulsions Due to their lipidic nature, waxes must be
6 7
CCT■ Cetyl alcohol■ Kester Wax K-48■ Kester Wax K-56■ Kester Wax K-59■
25000 20000 15000 10000 5000 0
0 1 2 3 4 5 % Wax added to Base #3
Figure 3: Viscosity changes with wax addition (Base 3, Formulas 23-33)
% w/w q.s.
0.05 1.0
5.0 0.6 6.0 1.0
3.0 2.0 4.0
0-6
formulated into the oil phase of any emulsion and stabilised with a proper emulsifier. Their incorporation into the oil phase can change the emulsion in different ways, for example, building viscosity or increasing spreadability. Due to compositional differences, waxes
are not readily interchangeable in emulsions.12 However, our three waxes have very similar chemistries and early work pointed to the possibility of building multiple robust emulsions and making variations for data collection without compromising stability and integrity.
6 7
PERSONAL CARE March 2022
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Viscosity (cP)
Viscosity (cP)
Viscosity (cP)
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