72 IN-COSMETICS PREVIEW
skin and suncare formulations. The newest ECOllaboration kit from Dow
(F80) offers sustainable innovations with brand new formulations that carry a naturality index content of 90% and above, the company states. This concepts collection showcases Dow’s new bio-based innovative ingredients that do not compromise on performance and are always backed by scientific data.
Stepan Personal Care (T30) Stepan Personal Care (T30) is stressing
sustainable ingredients such as natural emollients, biodegradable conditioning cationics, mild and sulfate-free cleansing surfactants. Its Amakuchi Wasabi Cleanser is also on display at the Sensory Bar. “Something you can get behind. Leaving you feeling good, both inside and out. Let’s take the initiative toward more sustainable ingredients,” the firm says
Solvay (C50)
Solvay (C50) is focusing on sustainability and inclusivity. The company says that it “is connecting the dots between beauty care and sustainability through its ‘Beauty for the planet’ campaign by giving their understanding on six hot sustainability topics”, while also embracing inclusivity through its textured hair offer, a tailored restorative routine that recognises unique needs and identifies where previous products were lacking. Examples of ingredients playing on both trends are: Dermalcare LIA MB, an alternative to non-volatile silicones; Jaguar NAT SGI, a thickener for challenging formulations; Jaguar C 500 STD, a conditioning polymer for a ‘zero gravity feel’ on hair; and Jaguar HP 8 COS SGI, a multi-functional thickening polymer for soft hair feel.
Innospec’s new formulation campaigns
feature a range of marketing inspiration, claims support, sustainability innovations and ingredients. The company stand (J120) will showcase a regenerative formulation kit that meets four key trends of zero waste, sensorial textures, natural claims, and scalp and hair health. These all focus on the future of sustainability and effective cleansing. Innospec will also exhibit a range of formulations that feature Iselux, its globally approved ingredient for luxurious, sulfate-free cleansing.
Lubrizol Life Science Beauty (J30) will
unveil a new biotechnological extract intended to restore the Phi ratio of facial proportions so that users can feel beautiful in their own skin. It will also present PemuPur Start polymer, a unique natural-derived polymeric emulsifier that is says provides excellent stabilisation capabilities at low usage level while offering a fresh and quick sensory break. Finally, the company is showcasing its collection of 12 new makeup formulations for face, eyes and lips, all made with active and functional ingredients and formulated to deliver benefits important to consumers.
PERSONAL CARE March 2022 Regenexir from Silab (P110) is an anti-
ageing active ingredient providing rapid regeneration to mature skin. It works by reinforcing the interconnectivity of the three biological systems systems (cutaneous, immune and vascular) that cooperate to revitalise the cellular interactions indispensable for cutaneous regeneration. As of 21 days, Regenexir reduces wrinkles and under- eye circles, attenuates vascularisation defects and revives complexion radiance in Caucasian and Asian volunteers. It has a content of natural origin of 99% (ISO 16128), is available in aqueous solution (recommended amount: 0.25-2.5%) and is compliant with cosmetic regulations in Europe, the US, China, Japan, etc.
Givaudan (G80) is highlighting three new
ingredients. One is be dedicated to scalp care and is crafted by green fractionation from upcycling to get rid of flakes by rebalancing sebum production. The two others are dedicated to skincare: a new generation of pore minimiser based on an active ingredient that gets to the root causes of enlarged pores; and another, about which Givaudan hints “What would it take to provide a powerful ingredient that actually works on fine lines, long-lasting hydration, skin mattifying and skin texture?” IFF (K30) is launching Heliosoft, a 100%
natural origin O/W emulsifier, composed of sunflower phospholipids and fatty esters with alcohols from rapeseed. It promotes lamellar organisation in formulas, which confers perfect affinity to the skin, while leaving a very soft, unctuous sensation after application. Heliosoft can emulsify alone up to 40% oil and is compatible with all kinds of ingredients. It can also be used as a co-emulsifier or skin feel enhancer, giving formulators high flexibility to create very fluid to thick textures. Also on show is IBR-Sol Age, a multi-functional active that mimics the pink alga Dunaliella salina to prevent glycation, detoxify advanced glycation end products (AGEs) and decrease AGE- mediated signalling.
Eastman’s (D80) GEM technology enables
formulations to include ingredient that have a lower LCA, less energy and water consumption, and lower greenhouse emissions and waste compared to conventional manufacturing processes. One product of it is Eastman GEM retinyl sunflowerate, a pro-retinol derivative made from retinol and sunflower fatty acids. This is a high-purity, golden oil that is pourable at room temper, free of carriers and antioxidants.
Covestro (C70) will feature its latest
naturally-derived polymer Baycusan Eco E 1001 for makeup involving natural and long- lasting formulations, which will also be the subject of a technical seminar on 7 April at 13.25. Also on show are the partly biobased hair fixative, Baycusan Eco E 1000, for more natural and strong hold hair styling gels, as well as Baycusan partly biodegradable film-formers for hair styling aerosols, and for ocean-friendly and high protective sunscreens.
Silab (P110)
Laboratoires Expanscience (G110) is launching Calybiota Bio, an extract of the calyx of the red Kapakier flower, a tree found in Africa. Calybiota Bio is a microbiome- friendly active ingredient, 100% natural and COSMOS-certified by Ecocert. It protects and maintains the skin microbiota balance while respecting most sensitive skins. This active ingredient is particularly recommended in applications for acne-prone skin and skin with atopic, eczematous or hypersensitive tendencies. It can also be used in intimate hygiene cosmetic products, since tests showed a vaginal flora-protective action.
Surfactant specialist Verdant Specialty
Solutions (M30) is showcasing its ability to create natural and vegan formulations with mild amphoteric surfactants like Miranol Ultra C32 for sensitive skin cleansers and baby products or boost foam with Mackam CBS 50G E, a biodegradable sultaine made with coconut oil. The firm has plants in the US and Europe.
Among the major distributors who also offer
formulation services, Azelis (D60) is a focusing on solid formats, textures and natural materials in its new formulations, which will cover skin care, hair care, bath and shower, colour cosmetics, body care and sun care applications. In addition, the booth will showcase digital innovations, including the customer portal
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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