56 HAIR CARE
Amaranth peptides visibly increased hair fibre diameter and thickened chemically damaged hair after three applications compared to water solution.
Hair shine The ability of Amaranth peptides to increase shine was measured on Caucasian dark brown hair via image analysis. This method was previously validated and reported in the literature.7,8,9 Hair swatches were treated with a shampoo
and conditioner, with or without Amaranth peptides. Digital photographs were taken with Scion’s Image for Windows Software before treatment (initial) and after one application of treatments and drying 24 hours in a controlled environment. The original images were analysed using Scion Image for Windows software. A reference line was used for shine analysis on pictures obtained before and after the treatments (Figure 3). Hair shine was measured as the intensity of light reflected off hair (measured as gloss or shine intensity, which is known as specular reflection) before and after treatments. From the line drawn on the photographs
before and after treatment two curves of colour intensity versus distance (pixels) were generated. The line of each curve was integrated and the level of shine (gloss) was quantified. The higher the magnitude of the peaks, the higher the shine. Comparative statistical analysis of the intensity of gloss (shine) before and after treatments was performed using a GraphPad Prism 6.00. Image analysis results demonstrate that
Amaranth peptides (used at 0.2% active in a shampoo and conditioner) significantly increased shine intensity after one application by 18% compared to placebo (p<0.0001)(Figure 4). The increase in shine provided by Amaranth
INITAL
Figure 3: Example of design of shine images before (left) and after (right) Amaranth peptide treatment
peptides may be due to its ability to increase hair diameter, which leads to a larger surface area reflecting light, thus causing an increase in shine. This phenomenon had previously been reported in the literature.10,11 The specular reflection band (or shine
intensity) can be visualised in the pictures illustrated in Figures 3 and 4. After one application of Amaranth peptides, a denser light reflection band can be seen. This indicates a higher intensity of light, which results in perceivably more shine. The variation of colour intensity versus
distance (pixels) curves, before and after placebo and Amaranth peptides treatments are illustrated in Figure 5. The higher the gloss (shine), the greater the intensity curves. The amplitude of the peaks in the curves indicates that the initial light intensity increased after treatments. The higher the magnitude of the
AFTER 1 APPLICATION A
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Distance / pixels 400
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Figure 4: Hair shine images before (initial) and after one application with placebo and Amaranth peptide treatments
PERSONAL CARE March 2022 100 200
Distance / pixels 400
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Figure 5: Curves of variation of colour intensity versus distance (pixels) before & after placebo (a) & Amaranth peptide treatments (b)
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peaks, the higher the intensity of light on the hair, and thus the higher the shine.
Hair movement & bounce The effect of Amaranth peptides on Caucasian virgin hair movement and bounce was measured using a Wind Tunnel image analysis technique equipped with a digital camera. This method was previously validated and reported in the literature.12 Hair swatches were treated five times with a shampoo and conditioner (with and without Amaranth peptides), rinsed and dried. Hair swatches were placed in the wind tunnel for ten seconds at maximum air flow. The air flow and time of exposure were kept constant during the recording. The videos were analysed using Scion
Image for Windows software to determine the horizontal mean displacement. Measurements
Initial ■ Final ■
Initial ■ Final ■
NATUREPEP AMARANTH
PLACEBO
Intensity / a.u.
Intensity / a.u.
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