ANTI-AGEING
TABLE 1: FORMULATION USED IN METHOD 1 INCI
Aqua
Sodium Gluconate Propanediol Xanthan Gum
Cetearyl Olivate; Sorbitan Olivate Cetearyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol; Ethylhexylglycerin Caprylic/capric Triglyceride Octyldodecanol Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate copolymer
Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract; Aqua; Phenoxyethanol
Citric Acid; Aqua Parfum
This background motivated us to develop
methods for transferring visible pigmentation events on body areas like the forearms or back on one image to the face on another, or to simulate such events on the target image. The aim of the work presented here was to visualise and predict the impact of irradiation events on the face, even though these events were induced elsewhere on the body. Reinhard et al. first described colour transfer between images in 200125
. Since then, different
groups have further developed this method to improve and more realistically transfer colour from one image to another26-28
a method that takes into account emotions in colour transfer has been developed29
. Most recently, .
For our study, we developed and described
methods for transferring images of solar light- induced visible pigmentation, modulated with skin care actives, on the forearms to images of the face of individuals. Our methods use chromameter measurements of skin colour, which are then applied to the images to adjust facial colour to forearm colour.
Material & methods: 1 Figure 1 illustrating the methods used in the first test. We used a base formulation (placebo) and an active formulation consisting of the base formulation plus 3% of a commercial product containing Pepha®-AGE, a dry 2.5% extract of the green freshwater microalga Scenedesmus rubescens. Table 1 shows the base and active formulation. We recently developed a robust method for
irradiating skin with blue light with a wavelength of around 450 nm. In brief, skin on the inner forearm is irradiated with 60 J/cm-2
blue light
each day, equivalent to what can be obtained on a clear summer day in central Europe at around midday for about one hour30
row to reach a cumulative dose of 240 J/cm-2 Healthy volunteers (33 per group, female
, for four days in a .
Caucasian, Asian and multi-ethnicity, aged 21-41 with skin phototype III and IV) applied a base formulation and a formulation containing 0.075% of the microalgal extract to the
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Product A (Placebo)
67.24 0.20 5.00 0.20 4.00 1.50 1.00 8.00
10.00 2.00
0.40
0.00 0.16
0.30 Product B
(with microalgae) 64.24 0.20 5.00 0.20 4.00 1.50 1.00 8.00
10.00 2.00
0.40
3.00 0.16
0.30
TABLE 2: FORMULATION USED IN METHOD 2 INCI
Aqua
Disodium EDTA, Aqua Xanthan Gum Propanediol
Ethoxydigl YCOL
Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate Polysorbate 20
Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid Phytantriol
Isopropyl Myristate Isostearyl Isostearate Dicaprylyl Ether
Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Dimethicone
Paraffinum Liquidum
61
% w/w 62.98 0.05 0.20 10.0 2.00 3.00 0.50 1.00 0.50 4.00 4.00 4.00 1.00 1.00 2.00
Hydroxyethyl, Acrylate/Sodium, Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer 0.50 SG-Peptide 1000ppm Solution Sodium Hydroxide, Aqua
3.00 0.27
irradiation site. Pigmentation reaction was measured using a Chromameter® CR400 device from Konica. Measurements were taken on Day 0 just
before the first irradiation, on Day 3 just after the last, then on Days 4, 10 and 28. Images were taken with a Nikon D7000 camera in the presence of a 48-patch colour chart from Newtone Technologies. Skin colour was measured on the cheeks using a Chromameter CR400 and facial images were acquired using a Canfield Scientific Visia CR device, again with a 48-patch colour chart. All images were colour-calibrated to remove possible lighting variations. To simulate the pigmentation reaction on
the face, the colour variations measured on the forearm were digitally applied to facial images of the subject acquired with Visia CR system. As the face and the forearms are slightly different in colour, facial colour was adjusted to match the forearm colour using L*a*b* chromameter values. For this, the RGB image was converted to Lab space, the delta L*a*b* were applied to every pixel and the image was converted back to RGB space. Next, the colour variations measured at each
time point were applied to the facial images using the same algorithm. The resulting images
Original colour face L*
a* 60.12 13.77 b* 16.08
Adjusted of facial colour to match forearm colour
L* +5.64 a* -4.68 b* -2.33
illustrate the simulated, blue light irradiation- induced tan over time for a base formulation (placebo) and an active formulation.
Materials & methods: 2 Our second test compound consisted of the base formulation plus 3% of a commercial product containing 1,000 ppm Syn-Glow™ pentapeptide (INCI: Benzoyl Dipeptide-18 D-Phenylalanyl Arginyl D-Tryptophan Dipropylamide Mesylate). This is a known melanocortin receptor-1 agonist31
and the
expected enhanced skin pigmentation was known to be stimulated more effectively after mild UV irradiation on the skin. For this reason, we tested skin tanning
on the forearms of 29 female subjects (27 Caucasians, one Asian, one Arab) with an average age of 33.4 ± 5.5. An inclusion criterion for skin tone on the volar forearm was an ITA value of 28-55, corresponding to phototype II and higher. The test formulation (Table 2) was applied on a defined section of approximately 4 x 5 cm on the forearm twice daily for 14 days. On the midpoint of the application area, the skin was UV-irradiated with a spot 1 cm in diameter four
L*
Adjusted colour a*
65.76 9.09 b* 13.74
Figure 2: Adjusting face colour to match forearm colour in method 1 March 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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