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IN-COSMETICS PREVIEW


from olive stones and are of 100% plant origin, COSMOS-validated and vegan, with a NOI of 1. There is also a new generation of WorléeSoft Beads, visual particles in different sizes and colours, loaded with active ingredients. They are composed of mainly natural and renewable ingredients and used in leave-on or rinse-off products.


Innovacos (R138) is showcasing its ‘Active line’


ingredients that target anti-ageing processes by working with different pathways. Regenesea LS reverses the effect of ageing, making cells behave as if they were young, while Bioptimise Guava acts as a detox system, inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory factors involved in skin ossification and deterioration, and Plant C- Stem Vigna radiata can soothe UV-damaged skin. Also on show is the Formulience line, including the PolyAquol platform, a new generation of polyglycerol-based emulsifiers targeting multiple textures and sensory characteristics.


its most positive attributes. It can also be used alone. Asyntra D-Stress significantly reduces the loss of anandamide, the ‘bliss molecule’ that relieves stress and revitalises skin for a relaxed appearance and radiant glow.


Skin’Calm from Berkem (L58) is an extract of


the acacia flower, which is sourced in France and certified as China-compliant and of 100% natural origin. It is rich in sugars and polyphenols, both of which help to fight against some skin disorders by soothing the skin, rebalancing the pH and correcting imperfections. Thus, the company says, it is particularly suited to soothing sensitive skin that has been damaged by stress or mask use.


Carbon Wave (B30) will launch the world’s first


Normactive (A111) Chromazone from Normactive (A111) is


a centrally encapsulated, liposome-based formulation. It is based on pomegranate pericarp, which has a high antioxidant capacity and is a non-edible portion (43%) of the fruit. Chromazone is designed for long-lasting colour retention in dyed hair, protecting it from external factors by two mechanisms: forming a lipid-based film and locking hair colour by preventing the escape of dye pigments from the fibre; then entering the cortex because of its sub-micron size to release the extract for prolonged antioxidant activity on the hair. According to tests in leave-on, rinse-off and mixed studies, it has three times higher prolonged antioxidant activity than vitamin E, and causes 50% more improved colour protection and 25% less colour bleeding compared to a commercial benchmark and control.


Active Concepts (M90) Active Concepts (M90) is offering an


alternative to traditional or synthetic exfoliation methods in the form of AC Water Kefir PHA. This natural polyhydroxy acid (PHA) gluconic acid is derived from water kefir, a beverage created by the fermentation of grains harvested from the prickly pear cactus. PHAs cause less irritation and work only on the skin’s surface. Gluconic acid influences cellular renewal by dissolving the intercellular matrix, accelerating the elimination of keratinised skin cells and allowing the epidermis layers to expedite the tissue renewal process. AC Water Kefir PHA also delivers a vegan source of gluconic acid as it is not based on lactose or milk.


Exsymol (L48) is offering Adenosilane, a


silanol created from biofunctional silicium and-derived adenosine. It is said to revitalise the pore sheath, enabling it to retain its grip and prevent loosening as pores grow with advancing age and declining skin elasticity. According to in vitro tests, it optimises fibrillogenesis for sheath reconstruction, optimises the fibre network around the pore, boosts the available energy level and helps pore elasticity to recover.


Greenpharma (Q81) Atophylline from Greenpharma (Q81) is ‘bio-


inspired’ by how ticks produce evasin peptides to intercept and neutralise chemokines, inhibiting immune inflammatory responses. It acts as a neutraligand of chemokine CCL17, blocking CCL17 interaction with its receptor, then the immuno-inflammatory response after a contact with allergens. Studies on mild to moderate atopic skin volunteers treated with 0.44% Atophylline over 28 days showed a reduction in pruritus, skin inflammation and improvement of hydration and barrier function from Day 7 compared to a placebo group.


PERSONAL CARE March 2022


seaweed-based cosmetic emulsifier, SeaBalance. This is derived from sargassum, a floating seaweed that has exploded in recent years due to warming oceans, particularly around the Caribbean, Mexico, and South America, and can harm the atmosphere, local economies and ecosystems. Tests have shown it to be versatile across multiple pH levels, oil concentrations and polarities.


Actichem (Q67), which specialises in actives


upcycled from French vine shoots, has launched a new ingredient of 100% natural origin. Viniferol 1% Sol. is standardised in vegetal butylene glycol, contains >1% epsilon-viniferin (a resveratrol derivative) and is COSMOS-approved. A new clinical study showed it to have a slimming efficacy, with significant firming, smoothing and resculpting effects, the firm says.


Jungbunzlauer has a number of new


formulations on show at stand E90. These include: a SPF 30 sunscreen with inorganic UV filters, formulated with Citrofol AI Extra, a COSMOS-approved emollient distinguished by a pleasant sensory profile; a hand disinfection gel with lactic acid, so that the amount of ethanol in the composition can be reduced while maintaining the sanitising efficacy; and a skin cream formulated with zinc lactate to facilitate self-preservation and soften the skin.


Stephenson (M138), one of the world’s


largest manufacturers of solid format bases, will showcase its range of solid soap and shampoo bar products, notably: Syndopal 300-MB, ultra- mild 100% soap-free syndet base made with RSPO mass balance palm ingredients that is ideal for manufacturing mild and creamy shampoo, skincare and body bars; and, Syndopour 200-MB melt and pour syndet base, a first of its kind, which is RSPO-certified, ultra-mild, 100% soap-free and dermatologically tested, enabling users to create a variety of mild, pH balanced hair, body and facial bars. It also claims luxurious lather and high foaming properties, suiting it to pH-neutral bars that are kind to skin.


Lipoid Kosmetik’s (K110) highlights include Sytheon (D12) Sytheon (D12) is introducing Asyntra


D-Stress, a patent-pending product that acts synergistically with CBD and hemp oil, amplifying


PhytoCollagen, a new active ingredient and plant-based collagen alternative. It also has milk products and plant-based milk alternatives, such as the certified microbiome- friendly active ingredient Yogurtolin


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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