50 NATURALS


Transcending skin ethics with a new ethos


Emilio Rubio, R&D Project Manager, Clara Vigo, Product Manager - Provital


With consumers becoming increasingly aware of issues surrounding sustainability, a global and far-reaching initiative is indispensable in order to limit environmental damage. Ethicskin™ arises from the need to


broaden the limits of sustainability and ethics in the beauty sector, to bring honesty and transparency to another level and to find a new way of acting, where biodiversity and environmental conservation go hand in hand with social and economic growth, and where traditional knowledge and natural resources are valued and rewarded fairly. This multi-functional, well-ageing active


developed and produced in collaboration with one of Provital’s flagship sustainability initiatives, the Mujeres & Ambiente (Women & the Environment, M&A) Project.


M&A Project M&A is a community-based initiative founded by Eulalia Moreno in Mexico in 2010. Eulalia and her daughters, Ángeles and Rosa Balderas, strive to improve the livelihoods of local communities through a micro-enterprise focused on the sustainable cultivation of vegetables, and medicinal and aromatic plants. Supported by the UN Development


Partnership’s Global Environment Facility, Epidermal hydration


350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0


274 186 289


900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0


CERS3 AQP3 HAS1


1900 1700 1500 1300 1100 900 700 500 300 100


Cell homeostasis & proliferation 1788


the M&A Project is helping to establish the legal framework to ensure the right to protect biodiversity by establishing links between scientists and researchers, so that communities can identify the molecular constituents that should be preserved, celebrated and/or sold. This is definitely a revolutionary approach


to saving biodiversity. Biological diversity underpins healthy ecosystem functioning and contributes to local livelihoods and economic development, which is essential to achieving the UN’s 2030 Agenda and its Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).1 More specifically, this project will advance


Mexico’s efforts regarding SDGs 1 on poverty, 2 on zero hunger, 5 on gender equality, 8 on decent work and economic growth, 9 on industry, innovation and infrastructure, 12 on responsible consumption and production and 15 on life on land among others.2 Provital’s collaboration with M&A started


in 2014, bringing together private enterprise, academic institutions, government ministries, researchers and scientists to recognise the importance of natural resources, biodiversity and sustainable practices, as well as the value of traditional and indigenous knowledge. With this new active, we are going one step further by obtaining the first worldwide


Skin barrier reinforcement 794 277


100 80 60 40 20 0


DEFB103 DEFB4A Inflammaging 536 258 TFAM kER14 FGF7


100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0


Oxidative stress HMOX1 CAT ABSTRACT


Provital recently launched Ethicskin, a multifunctional active developed around an internationally recognised ethical initiative in Mexico. A traceable ingredient that is of 100% natural origin and COSMOS-approved, it effectively regulates the gene expression of multiple mechanisms related to skin homeostasis. Tested in a multi-ethnical panel, it significantly improves skin health, generating a preventive and inclusive path to skin well-ageing.


Internationally Recognised Certificate of Compliance (IRCC) under the Nagoya Protocol for a cosmetic ingredient. Under this protocol, producers in Querétaro’s rural regions signed a first-of-its-kind agreement between Mexico and Spain, giving access to the genetic resources of plants cultivated in Mexico for traditional medicine, and fairly compensating rural producers for their labour and inherited knowledge. Partnerships among government agencies,


private entities, academic organisations and local communities have been formed thanks to it – and the benefits are now beginning to


Hyperpigmentation EDN1 44 55


100 80 60 40 20 0


34


68 49 48 48 34 21 CXCL8 IL1B IL6 CXCL8 CXCL1 CCL2 PAI-1 PAI-2 MMP3


Figure 1: Results of gene expression assessment. In vitro gene expression assessment in Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (in blue) and Fibroblasts (in orange)


PERSONAL CARE March 2022 www.personalcaremagazine.com 43 49 31

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